South Africa Archives - Nicola Ann Art

Dec 24

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Nature, Off-Road, South Africa 0 comments tags: Lebombo Border Post, Mozambique, Naara Eco Lodge & Spa, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, South Africa

Motswari, South Africa to Naara Eco Lodge & Spa, Mozambique

Leaving Motswari Private Game Reserve, Timbavati, South Africa at 11am, it took us over ten hours (five hundred and ninety-two kilometres) to reach Naara Eco Lodge & Spa in Chidenguele, Mozambique. Something I wouldn’t recommend doing: driving anywhere in Mozambique in the dark or even dawn or dusk. Unless you had a death wish. NEVER TRUST GOOGLE MAPS When it comes to border posts between South Africa and Mozambique! Last year we experienced the same issue when Google showed a border post that did not exist. This time the same occurred; however, instead of driving all the way to the post as we had done last time to find it didn’t exist, we asked a staff member at Motswari when checking out. No, Gaza border is not open. You have to drive to Lebombo Border Post (also called the Komatipoort Border). TIME IS (NOT) ON MY SIDE Damn! That added another four hours onto our travel time, provided all went smoothly. Life or death! We had a decision to make. Do we spend the night at Komatipoort and then leave first thing in the morning? Or do we take a chance, hope the border isn’t too busy, take a short cut through […]

Dec 20

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Nature, Off-Road, Safari, South Africa, Sunrise, Sunset, Travel 0 comments tags: Motswari Giraffe’s Nest, Nicola Ann Art, Safari, South Africa, Timbavati and Umbabat Private Nature Reserve

Five-star Safari & Adventure At Motswari Geiger’s Camp

FROM ESWATINI BACK TO SOUTH AFRICA Resuming our Southern Africa adventure, we left Piggs Peak, Eswatini and explored as much off-road as possible before reaching the five-star safari experience Motswari Geiger’s Camp in the Timbavati and Umbabat Private Nature Reserve, South Africa in time for the afternoon and evening game drive. JUST THE TWO OF US We had the entire camp, a ranger and a tracker to ourselves, the only two booked in at the main reserve. A novelty, something neither of us had before experienced; as if deliberately arranged, but so happened by sensational chance. MOTSWARI GIRAFFE’S NEST Straight after the afternoon game drive, the ranger dropped us off at Motswari Giraffe’s Nest, so that we could witness the dramatic sunset; well worth cutting the drive short. While enveloped by untamed wilderness, as far as the eye could wander, we spent our first night in a luxurious nest, high above the ground in a treetop overlooking Xanatsi Dam. The chef had prepared our dinner and breakfast, with bowls of snacks and as many soft and alcoholic drinks as desired. Both the food and the drinks would last at least a few days. STAY ALERT – DON’T GET HURT We […]

Dec 17

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Off-Road, South Africa 0 comments tags: BeanOn Photography, Bulembu, Eswatini, Memel-Zamani, South Africa, Southern Africa Adventure

Southern Africa Adventure Memel-Zamani, South Africa to Bulembu, Eswatini

While exploring off-road through the Free State we stumbled upon Memel. Memel-Zamani now being the official name in recognition of the Zamani township – a settlement adjoining Memel to the west in which several thousand black Africans reside. During the apartheid era, Zamani was separated from Memel by a golf course which acted as a buffer between the two, now however the golf course no longer exists, houses have been built on it and the buffer zone has disappeared. The town and township are now adjacent in one small location. We paid R20 each to visit a tiny museum housing several display cases with artefacts from the Great Trek. Everything else, except a convenience store, was closed, including the hotel on the main street and an art gallery. A ghost town with a few people scattered around. Please Note: For copyright purposes, I have considerably reduced the resolution of each image below. Bulembu, Eswatini From Memel-Zamani, we meandered through Piggs Peak reaching Maguga Lodge in Eswatini just after sunset. Last year we drove through the derelict Havelock Mine in Bulembu, Eswatini, without stopping. This year we made a point of returning, ensuring time was on our side to explore another ghost town, which is now […]

Dec 15

by Nicola in Uncategorized 0 comments tags: 4x4, BeanOn Photography, bushlore, Free State, Highest Pub in Africa, Land Cruiser, Lesotho, Off-road, Oranje Guest Farm, Sani Pass, South Africa

Another Daring Off-road Adventure through Southern Africa

SOUTH AFRICA, LESOTHO, MOZAMBIQUE AND SWAZILAND INDESTRUCTIBLE TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 79 FOR HIRE This time around we added a fourth country to our Southern African feat. Lesotho. Instead of using my 4×4 as we did last year, we hired a Toyota Land Cruiser 79 from https://bushlore.com. A robust and exceptional fully equipped self-contained 4×4 camper that exceeded our expectations. Except for one minor incident that occurred while on tar cruising through Lesotho. DURBAN THE BEST PLACE TO START Our adventure started in sweltering hot Durban, and what should have taken just over 3 hours took us almost 5 hours while driving off-road via Richmond. Through townships and lush KwaZulu-Natal hills and valleys that most people would advise against facing. I know… “Never throw caution to the wind. It could whip back into your eyes and blind you.” SANI PASS NOT YET TARRED We thought this may be the last time we get to experience Sani Pass as its authentic self, with a series of hairpins, twists, dongas, drops and picture-perfect scenery. Sadly, it’s soon going to be all tar from the ruins of the Good Hope trading store to the Lesotho border post. I’ve driven it a few times so had to […]

Jan 18

by Nicola in 4x4, KwaZulu-Natal, Travel, Wildlife 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Big 5, Early morning, KwaZulu-Natal, nature, Off-road, South Africa, Sunrise, Wildlife, Zululand

Amakhosi Safari Lodge KwaZulu-Natal South Africa

This time, our adventure through Swaziland, as much off-road as on-road, prevented us from making the evening game drive at Amakhosi Safari Lodge, northern KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. With hunger at bay, three trips to the waffle station at The Royal Swazi Spa Hotel near Mbabane, Swaziland later, we thought we’d given ourselves enough time to explore off-road and make the game drive. Speaking of Swaziland, or now known as The Royal Kingdom of Eswatini, I ponder whether they’ll change their flag, as South Africa did… After checking Google Maps (yes, as mentioned before, not always a good idea), we decided to head for the 4×4 only dirt tracks from Nhlangano through to Mhlosheni in Swaziland, straight through the Swaziland / South African border post as shown on Google and then onto the N2 freeway towards Pongola. Around thirty kilometres later we’d then arrive at the private game reserve, Amakhosi Safari Lodge, just in time for the sundowners in the heart of the African bushveld. U-Turn Well, Google maps indicated a border post that did not exist, which was supposed to lead straight onto the N2 freeway about twenty kilometres outside of Pongola. A camouflage army tent […]

The Kruger National Park to Saddleback and Bulembu Passes

From Kirkman’s Kamp in the Sabi Sands Reserve we entered The Kruger National Park through the Kruger Gate and drove at 50km/hr for two hours through the park, spotting a massive herd of elephant spread out as far as the eye could see. Through the gate at Malelane, we exited The Kruger National Park and drove to Barberton for padkos and refuelling. South-east of Barberton, we chugged along the ever steep and winding tarred Saddleback Pass with sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and Sappi’s forestry. Over 10.5 kilometres, we climbed 609 meters in altitude. Beyond the summit and Lomati Dam, the Saddleback Pass becomes the Bulembu Pass, which connects South Africa to Swaziland. Warning Bulembo Border post closes at 4:00pm. We arrived with two minutes to spare and fortunately, made it to the Swaziland side. It would have been a very time-consuming mistake otherwise… From here onwards, through the derelict mining town previously known as Havelock Mine, now owned by Bulembu Ministries, a Canadian evangelical Christian charity, a 4×4 is a must. The road was incredibly exciting and in the heavy downpour that cloaked over us proved a challenge I never wanted to end. […]

Jan 14

by Nicola in Nature, Uncategorized, Wildlife 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Big 5, Early morning, Kirkman's Kamp, Leopards, nature, Off-road, Private Game Reserve, South Africa, Sunrise, Wildlife

Kirkman’s Kamp Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve

From the meandering mountain passes of Swaziland, we drove almost six hours through Nelspruit to Kirkman’s Kamp in the heart of the emblematic Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve. This time we stuck more on-road than off-road so as not to miss the afternoon game drive at the lodge. Due to my car’s dead battery and having to replace it soon after reaching White River, we came extremely close to missing out. Of course, they would have waited for us, or taken us in another vehicle to join the safari. No doubt about it! Fortunately, with thirty minutes to spare we had time for high tea spread out on the patio before the show began… The Cats Known for its prolific leopard sightings, Sabi Sands had always been on the top of my list for wanderlust. Finally, I made it! After the fearless honey badgers, which are more elusive than leopards, the leopard is my next favourite animal to observe in the wild. The three leopard sightings with the game ranger, Jonty, unsurpassed any other sighting I’ve before experienced. We got to behold a female tearing a fresh impala kill to shreds; another smaller female strolling along the main track […]

Jan 10

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Beach, Travel 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, beach, BeanOn Photography, Exploring, Indian Ocean, Malongane, Mozambique, Off-road, Ponta, Ponta do Ouro, Ponta Malongane, Rugged Terrain, South Africa, Zululand

Offroad adventure of a Lifetime around South Africa, Mozambique and Swaziland

A total of two thousand and five hundred kilometres turned into an off-road adventure of a lifetime around South Africa, Mozambique and Swaziland. Completed in a speedy nineteen days. From 20th December 2018 to 7th January 2019 we spent three-quarters of the time off road than on road in my 4×4, deliberately seeking off the beaten tracks, tracks invisible on Garmin GPS. Forget Google Maps and Waze! Unless you have endless time to get back on track. If only… Naturally, I expected to be excited by the trip. New places to explore, different cultures to experience; so much of the unknown to delve into. My expectations were dull in comparison to the constant stream of stimulation engulfed at every turn, wishing every moment would last so much longer. Three countries: two out of the three I hadn’t set foot in | Two provinces, almost opposite ends of South Africa | Exploration of surf and turf | Beaches | Surfing | Luxury | Rustic | Gourmet | Basic | Braaied fish | R&Rs | Peri-peri | Unforgiving heat | Dripping humidity | Rural | City | Welcoming natives | Friendly foreigners | Electric thunderstorms | Blinding rain | […]

Apr 02

by Nicola in Beach, Durban, KwaZulu-Natal, People, Sunrise, Uncategorized 0 comments tags: BeanOn Photography, Durban, Durban beach front, Early morning, Indian Ocean, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

Happy Easter, Durban, South Africa

Happy Easter, Durban! Durban, vibrant and bursting with soul, is always a happy place to be but appears to be even happier during holidays. So many from around the country visit for the warm ocean and still hot sun. Even when the waves aren’t spectacular it’s crowded with surfers. Once again, even in Autumn, Durban is the warmest place to be, thanks to the locals. Most of these snaps were taken with my iPhone.

Dry grassland at Karkloof Nature Reserve

Oct 05

by Nicola in Adventure, Hiking, KwaZulu-Natal, Nature, Wildlife 0 comments tags: Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Early morning, Karkloof Nature Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal, nature, Off-road, Rugged Terrain, South Africa, Umgeni Valley, Wildlife

Two seasons at Karkloof Nature Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal

Nestled in the ever-green heart of the Umgeni Valley, Karkloof Nature Reserve offers unspoilt trails amidst an undulating plateau – which has an average altitude of approximately one-thousand meters – mistbelt forest, grasslands, wetlands and wildlife – the non-predatory type. I first hiked the reserve in February; as dawn descended and the sun-exposed itself the sweltering heat appeared to increase at least five degrees per hour. The lush vegetation, a pulsating green as dense as a nineteenth-century novel, kept the giraffe from sight. From the top of the jagged cliff face far into the distance, we spotted the head of a giraffe grazing the tops of acacias. Unfortunately, we didn’t have the time to get up close and personal and vowed to return in the near future. Five months later, our pledge met, we returned in pursuit of the elusive giraffe. The lush green grasslands moved over for the wintery browns and the blackened grasslands caused by controlled fires. The sun took a little longer to warm my bones, and only increased a degree per hour. As a lone yellow-billed kite, unusual to see at this time of the year, hovered on the thermals overhead, we came across a […]

Scalloped hammerhead shark, the canal side, Durban

Jul 23

Durban is the warmest place to be

Unequivocally, Durban is the warmest place to be – it is practically summer all year round with its sub-tropical climate and laid-back, friendly people. Most mornings (when I am home, of course), at first light, I spend at Durban’s vibrant beachfront: running along the soft, golden beach sand; cycling up to thirty kilometres along the promenade, up and down the piers, around Moses Mabhida Stadium, across the Umgeni River and back again; surfing even in winter, mostly with a spring wetsuit; and recently, my new found addiction, yoga with Lauren from SurfSup Yoga. At dawn this morning I warmed up with an hour’s run along the beach sand before enjoying a soothingly stimulating session of yoga at Snake Park Lawns, on the promenade. Exercising alongside the ocean, while watching the sun rise and sharing it with others that were clearly health conscious, was an experience to behold. A few hours later, mid afternoon, I returned to the beachfront with my camera where I experienced a completely different world compared to the world at dawn. A promenade teeming with people, from diverse ethnic and cultural backgrounds, exultant and savouring everything the beachfront had to offer from rickshaw rides to Zulu dancing, […]

Jul 14

Gwahumbe Game Lodge & Spa – a sea of tranquility

Whenever I visit Gwahumbe Game Lodge & Spa it’s as though I’m floating on a sea of tranquillity. One of my favourite little pieces of heaven just over an hour’s drive from Durban. Usually, I am either exploring the reserve by 4×4 or huffing and puffing along the 4×4 track on a mountain bike; however, this time I decide to self-indulge (actually, a friend treated me) in luxurious beauty treatments at the four-star (plus, in my opinion) spa. A decadent treat. As someone once said, resistance is futile… Before even reaching the main gate to the reserve, I stop a few times to photograph the rolling mountains with the sugar cane fields in the foreground blushing a vibrant green. The light haze from the sun enveloping the peaks make them appear too perfect for this world. Nature at it’s five-star best! At the main reception, where I announce my arrival, I help myself to a mug of Rooibos tea and take it down with me to the spa, overlooking more perfect peaks now with balls of cloud hovering above them, the sun almost disappearing for good. My favourite treatment without doubt is the hot stone massage. A […]

Lord Millner Hotel, Western Province, Great Karoo

Matjiesfontein Station, Great Karoo, Matjiesfontein

Feb 28

by Nicola in Architecture, People 0 comments tags: Architecture, BeanOn Photography, Great Karoo, Lord Milner Hotel, Matjiesfontein, nature, South Africa, Western Cape

Great Karoo, Matjiesfontein

From Cape Town we drove through some spectacular passes and dramatic landscapes making up the Great Karoo that led us to Plettenberg Bay. The highlight of the journey to our final destination had to be spending the night in Matjiesfontein at the Lord Milner Hotel, lord of the manner more like… Imagine stepping back in time over a century ago… I’ve always longed to inhabit the Earth when only wild beasts freely roamed, without us humans around to destroy everything precious. Well, Matjiesfontein is a little like how I imagine the Earth to have been after the first set of humans developed in to ‘town’ dwellers, and ceased the beasts from roaming free. Okay, that may be a slight case of imagination running riot… But, excusing the mild digression, one definitely steps back in time at least one-hundred-and-thirty years when visiting Matjiesfontein in the Great Karroo, Western Cape. Nothing has changed, bar a lick or two of paint perhaps, since 1884. What else could a klein dorpie with this much character ever possibly need? When they refer to it as klein, it truly couldn’t be tinier.

Feb 20

by Nicola in Beach, Nature 2 comments tags: African penguins, BeanOn Photography, Boulders Beach, Cape Town, Early morning, Muizenberg Beach, nature, penguins, South Africa, Western Cape

Cape Town, African Penguins at Boulders Beach

A trip to Cape Town wouldn’t feel complete without visiting the African Penguins at Boulders Beach. Let’s arrive early, we thought, and enjoy a swim with the penguins at Boulders Beach. Okay, but only after devouring the hotel’s five-star breakfast that started at 7am. Well, early out of season is a lot different to early in season. After discovering that not a space existed at the main car park we ended up parking along a residential road past the second car park. With the sun beating down in a blemish free sky, already melting the suntan lotion from my body, we discovered hundreds of bodies down on the beach. Families sprawled out on the soft, white sand, up on the impressive granite boulders that naturally protect the beach from the wind and unruly waves. What an idyllic swimming spot, albeit it slightly colder than Durbs’ Indian Ocean. A few penguins, feathers ruffled, languorously basked in the sun, on the sand, on the rocks. Others dipped in to the sea to get away from the larger two-legged creatures. Four or five juvenile birds were moulting on the beach. And a rogue couldn’t resist attacking a sandal: starving little fella. […]

Jan 30

by Nicola in People, Street Photography 0 comments tags: BeanOn Photography, Cape Flats, Cape Town, Gugulethu, Gugulethu Township Tour, South Africa, Township Tour, Western Cape

Cape Town, Gugulethu Township Tour

Once upon a time, many many years ago, I desired experiencing life in a township. Longing to spend a weekend with my maid and her family, I had an urge to walk kilometres for water, walk to the shop and carry the supplies on my head, make a fire to cook dinner and heat water, and everything else that encompassed living in a township. What would it feel like to exist without luxury? For some reason my parents prevented me from gaining such an understanding. So, the next best thing had to be the Gugulethu township tour whilst visiting Cape Town. We chose AWOL to provide us with the Gugulethu walking township tour, known for its importance during the struggle against apartheid, because they are a non-profit organisation and proceeds are put back in to the community, given to the people who make the tour possible. The knowledgeable and interesting guide, Ncebe, met us at Mzoli’s, a traditional bring and braai true-African-style establishment, and directed us to his home. Noticeably proud, he showed us around, explaining how he’d broken tradition with his renovations by building a bathroom inside the house instead of it being out back where most […]