4x4 Archives - Nicola Ann Art

Jan 01

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Beach, Nature, Off-Road, Travel 0 comments tags: Anvil Bay, Maputo Special Reserve, Mozambique, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Southern Africa

Maputo To Anvil Bay Via MAPUTO SPECIAL RESERVE Mozambique

Early breakfast; early getaway. And direct to Maputo Special Reserve, through almost 1 500 km² of agrarian conservation to reach Anvil Bay, the private and exclusive barefoot beach camp. MAPUTO SPECIAL RESERVE Off-roading at its best, we had deflated the tyres and listened to the warning of the angry elephants at the entrance gate to the reserve. ‘They charge vehicles. Not mock, real, deadly charge. Drive forward or reverse as fast possible in opposite direction. They big business. Grande!’ The ranger widened his arms either side of him, reinforcing the “big”. Bring it on. Unfortunately, after spending over three hours exploring the reserve, okay, hunting down the unruly beasts. I’d only ever experienced a mock charge by and elephant. Tut! Now the thought of a real, deadly charge caused my amygdala to fire off every thrilling emotion. We never crossed their path. It was searingly hot, we resigned ourselves to accepting they took cover amid the thick bush, where vehicle tracks weren’t visible. Off-piste? No, respect the rules. The highlight was watching three jackals stalk four adults and two young wildebeest. They’d separated from the larger herd and ungainly tried escaping an ambush. The adults outsmarted the predators by keeping […]

Dec 30

by Nicola in 4x4, Cities, Travel 0 comments tags: Maputo, Mozambique, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Peri-Peri, Polana Serena Hotel, Tofo Beach

Mozambique’s Tofo Beach to its capital Maputo

Early breakfast. Early departure. We drove from Tofo Beach, with a couple of stops en route, a total of seven hours, to Maputo. Through the main towns traffic jams, car accidents, wedding parties and livestock greeted us from every direction. Fortunately, the national asphalt roads were well maintained and drivers mostly behaved. Unlike when we first entered Mozambique. GRAND DAME BECKONS After checking into the palatial Grand Dame of African Hotels, known as the Polana Serena, we decided to leave the car behind and walk to Baixa, old town Maputo. Mozambique’s capital city, previously known as Lourenço Marques. After twenty minutes winding through the backstreets, we reached one of the wide main roads leading straight into the town. Suddenly it no longer felt safe and exciting. Many were finishing work and didn’t appear too pleased to see us, the only tourists as far as the eye could wander. FOOT DOWN “Let’s go back and get the car!” This time I put my foot down, defiantly insistent. Being enclosed within a vehicle made all the difference to feeling safer. Still, I felt on edge, keeping my wits about me even when in the car, ensuring the doors were locked and windows rolled […]

Dec 29

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Beach, Off-Road, Travel 0 comments tags: Mozambique, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Tofino Beach, Tofo Beach

Tofo Beach, Mozambique

On the road again… After breakfast, we left Naara Eco Lodge & Spa and drove off-road as much as possible, a total of five hours to reach Tofo Beach. Our main destination in Mozambique, a place devoid of South African and overseas tourists, unlike Ponta do Ouro. AN ARRESTING EXPERIENCE A friendly laid-back vibe, vibrant people as warm as the beach sand at midday, intimate pulsating nightlife, popular Moz musicians, unique ocean life protected by an arresting bay ebbing and flowing onto a long arced beach, exquisite food, Tofo Beach breathed and oozed Paradise. POINT BREAK The bay dished out perfect ridable waves idyllic for both beginner and intermediate surfers. The pro surfers headed around the point to Tofino (little Tofo) for a ride of their life, where most tourists didn’t venture. During sunrise and low tide, a walk from Tofo Beach around the headland to Tofino made for an energising start to the day. MERRY X-MASS On Christmas day Mozambicans arrived in droves and celebrated as though the world were ending the following day. Police patrolled the market and beach, in case anyone turned too frisky. Fortunately, the people partied in peace and the enforcement was kept at bay. […]

Dec 24

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Nature, Off-Road, South Africa 0 comments tags: Lebombo Border Post, Mozambique, Naara Eco Lodge & Spa, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, South Africa

Motswari, South Africa to Naara Eco Lodge & Spa, Mozambique

Leaving Motswari Private Game Reserve, Timbavati, South Africa at 11am, it took us over ten hours (five hundred and ninety-two kilometres) to reach Naara Eco Lodge & Spa in Chidenguele, Mozambique. Something I wouldn’t recommend doing: driving anywhere in Mozambique in the dark or even dawn or dusk. Unless you had a death wish. NEVER TRUST GOOGLE MAPS When it comes to border posts between South Africa and Mozambique! Last year we experienced the same issue when Google showed a border post that did not exist. This time the same occurred; however, instead of driving all the way to the post as we had done last time to find it didn’t exist, we asked a staff member at Motswari when checking out. No, Gaza border is not open. You have to drive to Lebombo Border Post (also called the Komatipoort Border). TIME IS (NOT) ON MY SIDE Damn! That added another four hours onto our travel time, provided all went smoothly. Life or death! We had a decision to make. Do we spend the night at Komatipoort and then leave first thing in the morning? Or do we take a chance, hope the border isn’t too busy, take a short cut through […]

Dec 20

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Nature, Off-Road, Safari, South Africa, Sunrise, Sunset, Travel 0 comments tags: Motswari Giraffe’s Nest, Nicola Ann Art, Safari, South Africa, Timbavati and Umbabat Private Nature Reserve

Five-star Safari & Adventure At Motswari Geiger’s Camp

FROM ESWATINI BACK TO SOUTH AFRICA Resuming our Southern Africa adventure, we left Piggs Peak, Eswatini and explored as much off-road as possible before reaching the five-star safari experience Motswari Geiger’s Camp in the Timbavati and Umbabat Private Nature Reserve, South Africa in time for the afternoon and evening game drive. JUST THE TWO OF US We had the entire camp, a ranger and a tracker to ourselves, the only two booked in at the main reserve. A novelty, something neither of us had before experienced; as if deliberately arranged, but so happened by sensational chance. MOTSWARI GIRAFFE’S NEST Straight after the afternoon game drive, the ranger dropped us off at Motswari Giraffe’s Nest, so that we could witness the dramatic sunset; well worth cutting the drive short. While enveloped by untamed wilderness, as far as the eye could wander, we spent our first night in a luxurious nest, high above the ground in a treetop overlooking Xanatsi Dam. The chef had prepared our dinner and breakfast, with bowls of snacks and as many soft and alcoholic drinks as desired. Both the food and the drinks would last at least a few days. STAY ALERT – DON’T GET HURT We […]

Dec 17

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Off-Road, South Africa 0 comments tags: BeanOn Photography, Bulembu, Eswatini, Memel-Zamani, South Africa, Southern Africa Adventure

Southern Africa Adventure Memel-Zamani, South Africa to Bulembu, Eswatini

While exploring off-road through the Free State we stumbled upon Memel. Memel-Zamani now being the official name in recognition of the Zamani township – a settlement adjoining Memel to the west in which several thousand black Africans reside. During the apartheid era, Zamani was separated from Memel by a golf course which acted as a buffer between the two, now however the golf course no longer exists, houses have been built on it and the buffer zone has disappeared. The town and township are now adjacent in one small location. We paid R20 each to visit a tiny museum housing several display cases with artefacts from the Great Trek. Everything else, except a convenience store, was closed, including the hotel on the main street and an art gallery. A ghost town with a few people scattered around. Please Note: For copyright purposes, I have considerably reduced the resolution of each image below. Bulembu, Eswatini From Memel-Zamani, we meandered through Piggs Peak reaching Maguga Lodge in Eswatini just after sunset. Last year we drove through the derelict Havelock Mine in Bulembu, Eswatini, without stopping. This year we made a point of returning, ensuring time was on our side to explore another ghost town, which is now […]

Jan 18

by Nicola in 4x4, KwaZulu-Natal, Travel, Wildlife 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Big 5, Early morning, KwaZulu-Natal, nature, Off-road, South Africa, Sunrise, Wildlife, Zululand

Amakhosi Safari Lodge KwaZulu-Natal South Africa

This time, our adventure through Swaziland, as much off-road as on-road, prevented us from making the evening game drive at Amakhosi Safari Lodge, northern KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. With hunger at bay, three trips to the waffle station at The Royal Swazi Spa Hotel near Mbabane, Swaziland later, we thought we’d given ourselves enough time to explore off-road and make the game drive. Speaking of Swaziland, or now known as The Royal Kingdom of Eswatini, I ponder whether they’ll change their flag, as South Africa did… After checking Google Maps (yes, as mentioned before, not always a good idea), we decided to head for the 4×4 only dirt tracks from Nhlangano through to Mhlosheni in Swaziland, straight through the Swaziland / South African border post as shown on Google and then onto the N2 freeway towards Pongola. Around thirty kilometres later we’d then arrive at the private game reserve, Amakhosi Safari Lodge, just in time for the sundowners in the heart of the African bushveld. U-Turn Well, Google maps indicated a border post that did not exist, which was supposed to lead straight onto the N2 freeway about twenty kilometres outside of Pongola. A camouflage army tent […]

The Kruger National Park to Saddleback and Bulembu Passes

From Kirkman’s Kamp in the Sabi Sands Reserve we entered The Kruger National Park through the Kruger Gate and drove at 50km/hr for two hours through the park, spotting a massive herd of elephant spread out as far as the eye could see. Through the gate at Malelane, we exited The Kruger National Park and drove to Barberton for padkos and refuelling. South-east of Barberton, we chugged along the ever steep and winding tarred Saddleback Pass with sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and Sappi’s forestry. Over 10.5 kilometres, we climbed 609 meters in altitude. Beyond the summit and Lomati Dam, the Saddleback Pass becomes the Bulembu Pass, which connects South Africa to Swaziland. Warning Bulembo Border post closes at 4:00pm. We arrived with two minutes to spare and fortunately, made it to the Swaziland side. It would have been a very time-consuming mistake otherwise… From here onwards, through the derelict mining town previously known as Havelock Mine, now owned by Bulembu Ministries, a Canadian evangelical Christian charity, a 4×4 is a must. The road was incredibly exciting and in the heavy downpour that cloaked over us proved a challenge I never wanted to end. […]

Jan 12

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Off-Road, Travel 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Exploring, Goba Border Post, Off-road, Swaziland, Wide Horizons Farm

Offroad Adventure from Mozambique to Swaziland (Eswatini)

Resistance was futile when it came to surfing at sunrise on our last day in Ponta. Soon, we were to swap surf for turf, heading from Mozambique to Swaziland (Eswatini) and for the rest of the trip the surfboards had to sadly stay tied to the roof racks. Hundreds of people started waking up on the beach and many others arrived to set up camp, all eager to celebrate New Year’s Eve in Ponta D’ Ouro. So sorry we missed it, but there’s always a new year to enjoy with the locals and ‘Mapushkins’, who would all definitely teach us a thing or two when it came to partying… With topped up provisions from the hubbub market, we reluctantly bade farewell to an incredibly laid back charm that oozed vigour and spirit. It took us thirty minutes to exit the market parking area because of a man in a bakkie unloading his stock of water bottles. Keep calm and…relax even more… was definitely the motto of Ponta life. In the direction of Maputo, the capital of Mozambique, we drove over a hundred kilometres. Moments after passing through the outskirts of Maputo Special Reserve, a haven for elephants […]

Jan 10

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Beach, Travel 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, beach, BeanOn Photography, Exploring, Indian Ocean, Malongane, Mozambique, Off-road, Ponta, Ponta do Ouro, Ponta Malongane, Rugged Terrain, South Africa, Zululand

Offroad adventure of a Lifetime around South Africa, Mozambique and Swaziland

A total of two thousand and five hundred kilometres turned into an off-road adventure of a lifetime around South Africa, Mozambique and Swaziland. Completed in a speedy nineteen days. From 20th December 2018 to 7th January 2019 we spent three-quarters of the time off road than on road in my 4×4, deliberately seeking off the beaten tracks, tracks invisible on Garmin GPS. Forget Google Maps and Waze! Unless you have endless time to get back on track. If only… Naturally, I expected to be excited by the trip. New places to explore, different cultures to experience; so much of the unknown to delve into. My expectations were dull in comparison to the constant stream of stimulation engulfed at every turn, wishing every moment would last so much longer. Three countries: two out of the three I hadn’t set foot in | Two provinces, almost opposite ends of South Africa | Exploration of surf and turf | Beaches | Surfing | Luxury | Rustic | Gourmet | Basic | Braaied fish | R&Rs | Peri-peri | Unforgiving heat | Dripping humidity | Rural | City | Welcoming natives | Friendly foreigners | Electric thunderstorms | Blinding rain | […]

Road Trip from London to Dunnet Head: Kirkstone Pass, Lake District

Road Trip from London to Dunnet Head: Whaligoe Haven

Road Trip from London to Dunnet Head: John O'Groates

Road Trip from London to Dunnet Head: Dunnet Head

Road Trip from London to Dunnet Head: Cairngorms National Park

Road Trip from London to Dunnet Head: Yorkshire Dales

Impromptu Road Trip from London to Dunnet Head

With a change of plans over the festive period, we bravely set off on an impromptu road trip from London to Dunnet Head, the most northerly point in mainland Britain, Scotland. Heading to Scotland we travelled through the Lake District, exploring Kirkstone Pass; Lybster; Whaligoe Haven where the famous Billy Connolly filmed part of his television series titled The World Tour of Scotland; John O’ Groats; Dunnet Head; North West Highlands, Inverness; Cairngorms National Park with the snow-capped CairnGorm mountain range where disappointed skiers turned to sledging. Such serene vistas almost all looked fake, too perfect. Lost in its beauty, I experienced another side to Scotland (Fort William and Ben Nevis previously posted) that appealed to all of my senses in dramatic force. Forcefully dramatic; dramatically forceful. Four days later, the journey back to London took us through the Yorkshire Dales with miles of moors, valleys, waterfalls, hills and stone-built villages. Remote, rugged and rejuvenating, travelling the UK during the Christmas holidays proved to be an adventure that has to be repeated. With only Indian or Chinese restaurants open or rather still with availability at the last minute, I didn’t mind eating Indian food two nights in a row. […]

Jul 14

Gwahumbe Game Lodge & Spa – a sea of tranquility

Whenever I visit Gwahumbe Game Lodge & Spa it’s as though I’m floating on a sea of tranquillity. One of my favourite little pieces of heaven just over an hour’s drive from Durban. Usually, I am either exploring the reserve by 4×4 or huffing and puffing along the 4×4 track on a mountain bike; however, this time I decide to self-indulge (actually, a friend treated me) in luxurious beauty treatments at the four-star (plus, in my opinion) spa. A decadent treat. As someone once said, resistance is futile… Before even reaching the main gate to the reserve, I stop a few times to photograph the rolling mountains with the sugar cane fields in the foreground blushing a vibrant green. The light haze from the sun enveloping the peaks make them appear too perfect for this world. Nature at it’s five-star best! At the main reception, where I announce my arrival, I help myself to a mug of Rooibos tea and take it down with me to the spa, overlooking more perfect peaks now with balls of cloud hovering above them, the sun almost disappearing for good. My favourite treatment without doubt is the hot stone massage. A […]

Apr 07

Tala Private Game Reserve’s Gems: Five Adult Rhinos

With the craving gnawing at my heart, it had been thirty days plus since I’d last seen a rhino. Just under forty-five minutes from Durban we arrived at Tala, amidst the thick mist from the drizzling rain. Resistance is futile when a craving is upon thee… After paying our dues at the gate we headed up the hill to the right in search of Tala Private Game Reserve’s gems: five adult rhinos. Okay, we cheated a little and asked the guard at the gate where they were last spotted. And there they were… Five large, healthy rhinocerotidaes (commonly known as rhinoceroses) huddled together on a mound of earth, resting while the rain gently fell. We spent about thirty minutes watching them stretch and roll over, as though their comfort in the damp truly mattered. After exploring the reserve, relishing a packed breakfast at the Hippo Hide, a coffee at the restaurant’s veranda and bouncing along the 4×4 only tracks, we returned to the rhinos up and about munching their way through the grass. Such spectacular creatures! As I’ve previously published a post on Tala Private Game Reserve about a year ago, I shall keep this one brief. […]

Kiara Resort, Maluti Mountains

This past Friday we drove an easy – with not one pothole in sight – four hours from Durbs to Kiara Resort nestled in the striking, sandstone Maluti / Maloti Mountains between the Golden Gate Highlands National Park and the charming village of Clarens in the Free State. From the moment we left Bergville we spotted herds of pure black wildebeest, small oribi antelope, eland antelope, blesbok antelope, springbok antelope, mountain reedbuck and zebra freely roaming the vast open scrublands at every meandering turn. The temperature reached 34 degrees Celsius before midday. The car’s air-conditioning turned up to maximum failed at providing relief from the incredibly dry heat. And this is autumn? With just over an hour to spare before check-in time at 3pm, we refuelled at the Golden Gate Hotel. While admiring the sandstone mountain range from the recently renovated hotel restaurant, we enjoyed a light, great value for money, lunch. Kiara Resort’s reception area appeared in great need of a spruce up. Fortunately, the apartment style self-catering chalet allocated to us wasn’t in the same state as the reception area. Clean, new and modern, the spacious chalet, comfortable for six adults, deserved a three-plus-star […]

Feb 21

by Nicola in 4x4, Nature, Safari, Wildlife 1 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Big 5, Buffalo, Early morning, Elephant, Exploring, KwaZulu-Natal, lion, nature, Off-road, Rhino, Rhino River Lodge, Rugged Terrain, South Africa, Sunrise, Sunset, Wildlife, Zululand

Rhino River Lodge: a sacred retreat

For me, after being away from home for nine months, nothing beats time in the bush. I chose Rhino River Lodge for a second visit because the first experience, eleven months ago, stayed with me every day since. I simply had to return. Again, expectations exceeded. Less than 3 hours from Durban, just off the N2, Rhino River Lodge, home to the Big Five, warmly awaited us. Chelsea, Clair, Kyle and Alex to name but a few were all as welcoming as the African sun (not once have I complained about KZN’s amazingly humid heat). The day we arrived, the temperature reached thirty-six degrees Celsius, in the shade. What a greeting! A pity about the drought… I’ve been fortunate enough to experience the knowledgeable and highly amusing ranger, Kyle, on both occasions. He threatened to name a meal after me for mispronouncing a Zulu word. I refuse to even attempt spelling it here. Swiftly moving on… While on a game drive, a French tourist asked: “What’s the difference between impalas and springboks?” Kyle began: “Springboks are lighter in colour, and —” “Impalas don’t play rugby,” a fellow South African piped up. Well, that tickled me! An […]