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Dec 30
by Nicola in 4x4, Cities, Travel 0 comments tags: Maputo, Mozambique, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Peri-Peri, Polana Serena Hotel, Tofo Beach

Mozambique’s Tofo Beach to its capital Maputo

Early breakfast. Early departure. We drove from Tofo Beach, with a couple of stops en route, a total of seven hours, to Maputo. Through the main towns traffic jams, car accidents, wedding parties and livestock greeted us from every direction. Fortunately, the national asphalt roads were well maintained and drivers mostly behaved. Unlike when we first entered Mozambique. GRAND DAME BECKONS  After checking into the palatial Grand Dame of African Hotels, known as the Polana Serena, we decided to leave the car behind and walk to Baixa, old town Maputo. Mozambique’s capital city, previously known as Lourenço Marques. After twenty minutes winding through the backstreets, we reached one of the wide main roads leading straight into the town. Suddenly it no longer felt safe and exciting. Many were finishing work and didn’t appear too pleased to see us, the only tourists as far as the eye could wander.  FOOT DOWN “Let’s go back and get the car!” This time I put my foot down, defiantly insistent. Being enclosed within a vehicle made all the difference to feeling safer. Still, I felt on edge, keeping my wits about me even when in the car, ensuring the doors were locked and windows rolled […]
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Dec 29
by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Beach, Off-Road, Travel 0 comments tags: Mozambique, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Tofino Beach, Tofo Beach

Tofo Beach, Mozambique

On the road again… After breakfast, we left Naara Eco Lodge & Spa and drove off-road as much as possible, a total of five hours to reach Tofo Beach. Our main destination in Mozambique, a place devoid of South African and overseas tourists, unlike Ponta do Ouro.  AN ARRESTING EXPERIENCE A friendly laid-back vibe, vibrant people as warm as the beach sand at midday, intimate pulsating nightlife, popular Moz musicians, unique ocean life protected by an arresting bay ebbing and flowing onto a long arced beach, exquisite food, Tofo Beach breathed and oozed Paradise.  POINT BREAK The bay dished out perfect ridable waves idyllic for both beginner and intermediate surfers. The pro surfers headed around the point to Tofino (little Tofo) for a ride of their life, where most tourists didn’t venture. During sunrise and low tide, a walk from Tofo Beach around the headland to Tofino made for an energising start to the day.  MERRY X-MASS On Christmas day Mozambicans arrived in droves and celebrated as though the world were ending the following day. Police patrolled the market and beach, in case anyone turned too frisky. Fortunately, the people partied in peace and the enforcement was kept at bay. […]
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Dec 24
by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Nature, Off-Road, South Africa 0 comments tags: Lebombo Border Post, Mozambique, Naara Eco Lodge & Spa, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, South Africa

Motswari, South Africa to Naara Eco Lodge & Spa, Mozambique

Leaving Motswari Private Game Reserve, Timbavati, South Africa at 11am, it took us over ten hours (five hundred and ninety-two kilometres) to reach Naara Eco Lodge & Spa in Chidenguele, Mozambique. Something I wouldn’t recommend doing: driving anywhere in Mozambique in the dark or even dawn or dusk. Unless you had a death wish. NEVER TRUST GOOGLE MAPS  When it comes to border posts between South Africa and Mozambique! Last year we experienced the same issue when Google showed a border post that did not exist. This time the same occurred; however, instead of driving all the way to the post as we had done last time to find it didn’t exist, we asked a staff member at Motswari when checking out. No, Gaza border is not open. You have to drive to Lebombo Border Post (also called the Komatipoort Border).  TIME IS (NOT) ON MY SIDE Damn! That added another four hours onto our travel time, provided all went smoothly. Life or death! We had a decision to make. Do we spend the night at Komatipoort and then leave first thing in the morning? Or do we take a chance, hope the border isn’t too busy, take a short cut through […]
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Dec 20
by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Nature, Off-Road, Safari, South Africa, Sunrise, Sunset, Travel 0 comments tags: Motswari Giraffe’s Nest, Nicola Ann Art, Safari, South Africa, Timbavati and Umbabat Private Nature Reserve

Five-star Safari & Adventure At Motswari Geiger’s Camp

FROM ESWATINI BACK TO SOUTH AFRICA Resuming our Southern Africa adventure, we left Piggs Peak, Eswatini and explored as much off-road as possible before reaching the five-star safari experience Motswari Geiger’s Camp in the Timbavati and Umbabat Private Nature Reserve, South Africa in time for the afternoon and evening game drive. JUST THE TWO OF US We had the entire camp, a ranger and a tracker to ourselves, the only two booked in at the main reserve. A novelty, something neither of us had before experienced; as if deliberately arranged, but so happened by sensational chance.  MOTSWARI GIRAFFE’S NEST Straight after the afternoon game drive, the ranger dropped us off at Motswari Giraffe’s Nest, so that we could witness the dramatic sunset; well worth cutting the drive short. While enveloped by untamed wilderness, as far as the eye could wander, we spent our first night in a luxurious nest, high above the ground in a treetop overlooking Xanatsi Dam.  The chef had prepared our dinner and breakfast, with bowls of snacks and as many soft and alcoholic drinks as desired. Both the food and the drinks would last at least a few days.  STAY ALERT – DON’T GET HURT We […]
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Dec 17
by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Off-Road, South Africa 0 comments tags: BeanOn Photography, Bulembu, Eswatini, Memel-Zamani, South Africa, Southern Africa Adventure

Southern Africa Adventure Memel-Zamani, South Africa to Bulembu, Eswatini

While exploring off-road through the Free State we stumbled upon Memel.  Memel-Zamani now being the official name in recognition of the Zamani township – a settlement adjoining Memel to the west in which several thousand black Africans reside. During the apartheid era, Zamani was separated from Memel by a golf course which acted as a buffer between the two, now however the golf course no longer exists, houses have been built on it and the buffer zone has disappeared. The town and township are now adjacent in one small location.  We paid R20 each to visit a tiny museum housing several display cases with artefacts from the Great Trek. Everything else, except a convenience store, was closed, including the hotel on the main street and an art gallery. A ghost town with a few people scattered around.  Please Note: For copyright purposes, I have considerably reduced the resolution of each image below. Bulembu, Eswatini From Memel-Zamani, we meandered through Piggs Peak reaching Maguga Lodge in Eswatini just after sunset.  Last year we drove through the derelict Havelock Mine in Bulembu, Eswatini, without stopping. This year we made a point of returning, ensuring time was on our side to explore another ghost town, which is now […]
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Dec 15
by Nicola in Uncategorized 0 comments tags: 4x4, BeanOn Photography, bushlore, Free State, Highest Pub in Africa, Land Cruiser, Lesotho, Off-road, Oranje Guest Farm, Sani Pass, South Africa

Another Daring Off-road Adventure through Southern Africa

SOUTH AFRICA, LESOTHO, MOZAMBIQUE AND SWAZILAND INDESTRUCTIBLE TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 79 FOR HIRE This time around we added a fourth country to our Southern African feat. Lesotho. Instead of using my 4×4 as we did last year, we hired a Toyota Land Cruiser 79 from https://bushlore.com. A robust and exceptional fully equipped self-contained 4×4 camper that exceeded our expectations. Except for one minor incident that occurred while on tar cruising through Lesotho.  DURBAN THE BEST PLACE TO START Our adventure started in sweltering hot Durban, and what should have taken just over 3 hours took us almost 5 hours while driving off-road via Richmond. Through townships and lush KwaZulu-Natal hills and valleys that most people would advise against facing. I know… “Never throw caution to the wind. It could whip back into your eyes and blind you.” SANI PASS NOT YET TARRED We thought this may be the last time we get to experience Sani Pass as its authentic self, with a series of hairpins, twists, dongas, drops and picture-perfect scenery. Sadly, it’s soon going to be all tar from the ruins of the Good Hope trading store to the Lesotho border post. I’ve driven it a few times so had to […]
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