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Jun 12
by Nicola in Sailing, Travel 0 comments tags: D-Marine, Greece, Greek Islands, Lefkas

greek odyssey: LEFKAS, GREECE

FIRST SAIL OF THE SEASON We spent 4 days eagerly getting Bella Rose ready for her first sail of the season. I wanted a break from boat-stuff and explored more of Lefkas town that I missed out on exploring the previous year. TOURISTS MISSING Because of coronavirus, Lefkas was devoid of tourists. The locals were very conscious of social distancing by keeping their space in queues and wearing masks at all times, even out on the streets. Even though it was approaching mid-season, very few charter boats were out and so the waterfront and marina remained restful. BEAUTY AMIDST THE BEASTLY In Lefkas, buildings were crumbling, yet people made it welcoming with pink bougainvillaea and lemon trees. A carpet of lemons remained discarded along the pavements. Smells of jasmine and magnolia sweetened the rotting aroma emanating from the rubbish bins and drains. Many houses were made of rusting corrugated iron. Even some contemporary homes designed by top architects were built with corrugated iron and freshly painted with magnolia. Mosquitoes turned hungrier at night and were undeterred by the citronella candle.
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Aug 13
by Nicola in Nature, Sailing, Travel 0 comments tags: Adriatic Alternatives, Albania, Montenegro, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Published article, Sailing Today, Sailing Today Magazine

‘Adriatic alternatives’ ARTICLE PUBLISHED BY SAILING TODAY MAGAZINE

ADRIACTIC ALTERNATIVES Nicola Beykirch works her way north from the Ionian Islands to explore Albania and Montenegro – two Balkan nations of contrasting allure Words & Photography By NICOLA BEYKIRCH Published  By SAILING TODAY September 2020 Edition Regular readers of “Sailing Today” may recall from the April edition that Captain Barry and I had spent a couple of weeks exploring Greece’s Ionian Islands on “Bella Rose“, our Oyster 545. After that we decided to challenge ourselves by sailing up the Adriatic to Albania before concluding our latest voyage in Montenegro. Albania conjured up thoughts of isolation and mystery and appeared a bold place to visit, let alone sail. We relished the challenge, and so one August dawn we found ourselves setting sail from Erikoussa Island, northwest of Corfu, to commence our adventure. A sloppy sea and erratic winds over 50 miles transported us to Vlorë Habour, the only harbour in Albania that permitted foreign boats to check-in. We arranged a clearing agent who assisted us in tying up. He then grabbed our documents, hopped on his bicycle and sorted out the paperwork at the harbour office.  We then sailed 6.5 miles to Marina Orikum, the only marina in Albania, where […]
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Aug 11
by Nicola in Adventure, Nature, Sailing, Sunset 0 comments tags: Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Ann Beykirch, Nicola Beykirch, Oyster 545

Sailing from venice to croatia on Bella Rose, our oyster 545 yacht

Once Bella Rose, our Oyster 545 yacht, was fit for sail, after spending a week in Venice that included an exploration of the Dolomites and Lake Garda, we were finally free to hit the open sea.  WELCOME BACK, SEA LEGS Upon completing the final checks, packing everything away and checking out of the marina office, we left Certosa Marina just before 11am on Monday morning.  MAYDAY-MAYDAY! At the risk of repeating myself, if you value your boat, do not leave it for any length of time at Certosa Marina. We were not the only yacht owners that experienced heart-ship. Another avid reader of Sailing Today contacted me via my website after reading about our troubles in an article published by the magazine to empathise with our very long, agonising story. Please do contact me directly if you are considering berthing at the marina, and I will provide additional details about our ordeal. COULD I WANT FOR ANYTHING MORE? The moment we left Venice in our wake and only the sea greeted us from every direction, I felt an invigorating peace wash over me from head to toe. With the wind through my hair, sun warming my skin and water lapping at […]
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Jun 01
by Nicola in Sailing, Travel 0 comments tags: Croatia, Istria, Kotor, Montenegro, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Sailing, Sailing Today

‘THE REST IS ISTRIA’ ARTICLE PUBLISHED BY SAILING TODAY MAGAZINE

THE REST IS ISTRIA  Nicola Beykirch headed to Venice in search of a cheap winter berth and endured the hardship of sailing the length of the Croatian coast en route  Words & Photography By NICOLA BEYKIRCH Published  By SAILING TODAY Regular readers of Sailing Today will recall that Captain Barry and I had sailed Bella Rose, our Oyster 545, along the Mediterranean to Sicily, and then on to the Ionian Islands, before turning up the Adriatic to Albania and Montenegro before flying back for a two-week break in London. We now returned to the port of Kotor and Bella Rose, eager to resume our summer adventure by sailing north to Croatia before finishing in Venice. From the port of Kotor, after purchasing supplies, we motored into the sun at 7pm. Behind us, the peaks bathed in a lavender glow and we motored to the nearest customs port at Tivat for Barry to check out. Upon arrival in July, our clearing agent had arranged our cruising permit and said we could check out from any port after we had returned, with no need for another permit. I stayed on board for over an hour before Barry returned having been told that our cruising […]
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Apr 01
by Nicola in Sailing, Travel 0 comments tags: Greece, Ionian Islands, Ionian Sea, Mediterranean, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Oyster 545 Yacht, Sailing, Sailing Today, Sicily

‘greece is the word’ article PUBLISHED BY SAILING TODAY MAGAZINE

GREECE IS THE WORD The magic of the Mediterranean is in the incredibly diverse cultures nestled on its shores. Nicola Beykirch charts a trip from Malta to the Ionian Islands via Sicily Words & Photography By NICOLA BEYKIRCH Published  By SAILING TODAY I couldn’t believe a year had slipped by since ‘A Med Time Story’ and ‘Sailing Safari’, on Bella Rose, our 2017 Oyster 545. It took minutes to decide the outline of our summer sailing 2019 adventure, reinforcing how easy-going both Captain Barry and I are when it comes to exploring together. A true sail and trail team! How about we head from Malta to Sicily to the Ionian Islands to Montenegro to Croatia and then leave Bella Rose in Venice for the winter? Barry didn’t need to hold his breath for my answer. Finally, the day arrived. On a Saturday at 5:30 pm, we bid farewell to Valetta’s Grand Harbour, where Bella Rose had spent the winter. We motored into a blinding sun and 40-degree heat. Fifteen miles from shore the expansive rich blue sea and tranquillity greeted us in every direction: no buildings, no land in sight. The idyllic start to a journey! Soon after dinner of a […]
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Jan 04
by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Beach, Off-Road, Sailing, Travel 0 comments tags: Anvil Bay, Dhow Sailing, Mozambique, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Sailing, Santa Maria, Southern Africa Adventure

Unique Dhow Sailing Experience Mozambique

After settling in at Anvil Bay, we experienced a first sailing trip on a dhow at a nearby lake. Dhow sailing has been a traditional way of travelling around along the East African coast as early as 600AD.  Anvil Bay collected their groceries, everything they didn’t grow themselves, from Santa Maria delivered by a dhow from Maputo.  Through the Maputo Special Reserve and Machangulo Reserve for almost thirty kilometres, we explored villages, dune forests, mangrove swamps, freshwater lakes and coast before reaching Santa Maria Peninsula on the eastern side of Maputo Bay, near to Inhaca Island. The ‘berth’ place for dhows. Please Note: For copyright purposes, the resolution of each image below is considerably reduced. Dhow Sailing Experience at Anvil Bay The Sailing Dhows ‘berthed’ at Santa Maria
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Aug 22
by Nicola in Adventure, Cities, Sailing, Travel 0 comments tags: Bella Rose, Croatia, Oyster 545 Yacht, Sailing, Venice

PART 5: CROATIA TO VENICE | BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL | SUMMER of 2019

BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL, AN INDELIBLY SENSATIONAL SAILING ADVENTURE FROM MALTA TO SICILY TO THE GREEK ISLANDS TO ALBANIA TO MONTENEGRO TO CROATIA TO VENICE. SUMMER OF 2019. Part 5: SAILING FROM CROATIA TO VENICE We sailed to 13 islands/towns in Croatia –– Cavtat, Dubrovnic, Sanj, Mljet, Lastovo, Hvar, Primosten, Skradin, Kornati Bay, uvala Balvanida, Pula and Rovinj –– before the overnight venture to Venice. Something I had always longed to do was sail up and down the canal in Venice alongside Piazza San Marco, up to the entrance of The Grand Canal. Such magnificence! The last time I’d visited Venice was in 2003, a completely different experience arriving by plane than by yacht, as though a first time visiting the city this time almost 20 years later. We spent a couple of days exploring Venice and the islands before shutting Bella Rose away for the winter. Perhaps we’ll return to her early next year for a skiing adventure over the Dolomites before the summer sailing in 2020. Photography taken in Croatia Photography taken in Venice
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Jul 29
by Nicola in Adventure, Sailing, Sunset, Travel 0 comments tags: Albania to Montenegro, BeanOn Photography, Montenegro, Montenegro Police, Oyster 545 Yacht, Sailing

PART 4: ALBANIA TO MONTENEGRO | BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL | SUMMER of 2019

BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL, AN INDELIBLY SENSATIONAL SAILING ADVENTURE FROM MALTA TO SICILY TO THE GREEK ISLANDS TO ALBANIA TO MONTENEGRO TO CROATIA TO VENICE. SUMMER OF 2019. Part 4: SAILING FROM ALBANIA TO MONTENEGRO Batten down the hatches! A stunning night engulfed my being upon departing Albania for Montenegro; a band of fiery orange exploded along the horizon, beneath a sparkling indigo sky. What a farewell to an enthralling adventure in Albania. Further excitement ensued the moment we dropped anchor at a bay just outside The Bay of Kotor. The police by RIB descended upon us like a honey badger on a swarming beehive. I’d prefer not to refer to the word ‘arrested’… So… with great theatrics, the police escorted us to the nearest customs office.   The responsibility fell completely on us, of course. We attempted to push the boundaries but got caught. The consequences dealt by draconian hand!  Indeed, I shall share further in the article to be published by the sailing magazine. Please Note: For copyright purposes I have considerably reduced the resolution of each image below.
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Jul 25
by Nicola in Off-Road, Sailing, Travel 3 comments tags: Albania, BeanOn Photography, Off-road, Sail & Trail, Sailing, Summer, The Greek Islands

PART 3: The Greek Islands to Albania | BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL | SUMMER of 2019

BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL, AN INDELIBLY SENSATIONAL SAILING ADVENTURE FROM MALTA TO SICILY TO THE GREEK ISLANDS TO ALBANIA TO MONTENEGRO TO CROATIA TO VENICE. SUMMER 2019.  Splice the mainsail! Part 3: SAILING FROM THE GREEK ISLANDS TO ALBANIA Albania… Yes, Albania! A surprise indeed. Let’s sail to Albania, Captain! Albania? You heard correctly! Okay! Really? Yes, you too heard correctly…   I know what! Let’s do the other thing we do best… Remind me, Captain said nudging gently. Trail… Of course, Sail & Trail.  We attempted to hire a 4×4; however, ended up with a Fiat Panda. We can’t take this off-road, or can we? Of course we can, but we’ll keep it to ourselves. Well, let’s just say the Panda made it. We almost didn’t and turned back a few times, for dongas the size of the Fish River Canyon and sheer drops along single tracks as high at the Rockies caused a few near-death experiences. Fffff… Formidable! For at least 100 kilometres, we took on rugged terrain. Brave or plain… irresponsible? I really prefer not to judge!
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Jul 15
by Nicola in Sailing, Travel, Uncategorized 5 comments tags: BeanOn Photography, Greek Islands, Ionian Sea, Navagio beach, Shipwreck beach, Siracusa to Zakynthos

PART 2: SICILY TO THE GREEK ISLANDS|BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL | SUMMER 2019

Bella Rose, Oyster 545, Up For Sail, an indelibly sensational sailing adventure from Malta to Sicily to the Greek Islands to Albania to Montenegro to Croatia to Venice. Summer 2019. Shiver me timbers! PART 2: SAILING FROM SICILY TO THE GREEK ISLANDS  First stop, Zakynthos. A Greek Island in the Ionian Sea. Navagio beach, aka Shipwreck beach, brings in more tourists, accessed by boat only, than any other tourist attraction in Greece, including Athens.  Second, third, etc., stops included: Kefalonia, Poros, Sami, Kisaka, Kioni, Lefkados, Antipaxos, Paxos, Corfu and Erikoussa. However, they are going to have to wait until magazine publication… I know! A killer! The rest of the words in images… Feel the sounds, smells, throbbing heat and rejuvenating tranquillity…
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Jul 08
by Nicola in Sailing 0 comments tags: BeanOn Photography, Bella Rose, Malta, Montenegro, Oyster 545, Sailing, Sicily, Siracusa, Sunrise, Sunset, Yacht

PART 1: MALTA TO SICILY | BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL | SUMMER 2019

Bella Rose, Oyster 545, Up For Sail, an indelibly sensational sailing adventure from Malta to Sicily to the Greek Islands to Albania to Montenegro to Croatia to Venice. Summer 2019. All aboard! Part 1: Malta to Sicily Whilst relishing writing the magazine articles reflecting my latest sailing adventures, resistance suddenly turned futile… How do I wait for them to be published…? “…Sail away with me honeyI put my heart in your handsSail away with me honey now, now, now…” Again, the futility of resistance when it came to the decadent gelato brioche sandwich smothered in fluffy cream. A very delicious reason for the overnight sail from Malta to Siracusa, Sicily. The evidence will be revealed in the published article… Watch this space… The images below portray the journey from Malta to Siracusa. Words? Are they really necessary?
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Jun 11
by Nicola in Sailing 0 comments tags: BeanOn Photography, Djerba, Malta to Tunisia, Nicola Beykirch, Sailing Safari, Sailing Today

SAILING SAFARI TO AFRICA PUBLISHED BY SAILING TODAY MAGAZINE

SAILING SAFARI TO AFRICA West and east are the usual directions sailors turn in the Mediterranean but Nicola Beykirch bucked the trend and headed south instead, to Tunisia Words & Photography By NICOLA BEYKIRCH Published  By SAILING TODAY Following on from our trip across the Mediterranean in Bella Rose, an Oyster 545, Captain Barry and myself had left her in Malta (see ST 264). The next leg of the trip was to head to Africa. We couldn’t wait to get the shopping done and the yacht prepared to start our next exploration. For a few hours after leaving Malta, the sea appeared a dirty green, more green than blue. the further we sailed away from the island, the more the sea turned a radiant cobalt blue. The next day was a full day at sea, and with 1m choppy swells, I couldn’t shake the seasickness. despite using a patch, wristbands and taking tablets, I still felt constant nausea…
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Feb 24
by Nicola in Adventure, Beach, Cities, Sailing, Travel 2 comments tags: Adventure, beach, BeanOn Photography, Gelato sandwich, Published Work, Sailing, Sailing Today Magazine, Sicily, The Med

Sailing Today Magazine Hot Off The Press

A Med-Time Story Majorca To Malta: Island Hopping On A Grand Scale By Nicola Beykirch Published  By Sailing Today Almost a year had passed before stepping back on the deck of Bella Rose, our year old Oyster 545. Berthed at Palma, Majorca for the winter, we couldn’t wait to throw off the bowlines, once again crisscrossing the Mediterranean…
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Dec 12
by Nicola in Adventure, Sailing, Sunrise, Sunset, Travel 4 comments tags: Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Early morning, Exploring, Oyster 545 Yacht, Sailing, Sunrise, Sunset, The Mediterranean Sea

Oyster 545 Yacht Always Up For Sail

Recently, I submitted an article, together with photographs, on the striking Oyster 545 yacht from Palma to Djerba, Tunisia via Sicily and Malta to a sailing magazine. It will be published as a feature in their spring edition.   The photographs instantly transported me onto the deck of the Oyster 545 and now being back ‘home’ in South Africa – sun, sea and surf – I can appreciate every sensation all over again.   I felt myself slipping into a mesmeric trance while watching nature at its best. Clouds dropped like a curtain over the tangerine sun. The luminous light and wind created patterns on the water, a constant movement of change. Soon the blood-orange ball reappeared. A tall, thick band of haze then gulped the sun. The clouds and haze turned a pomegranate pink. The blushing sky broke through sections of the barriers. The water below took on every shade from the sky above, reflecting, sparkling, dancing, rippling over the sea. A smorgasbord of colour and evolution all for the soul to spectacularly drown in.   With nothing but sea and sky around in every direction, it’s effortless discovering a peaceful bliss.    
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  • Sailing Today: Peace in Greece
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