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Jan 18
by Nicola in 4x4, KwaZulu-Natal, Travel, Wildlife 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Big 5, Early morning, KwaZulu-Natal, nature, Off-road, South Africa, Sunrise, Wildlife, Zululand

Amakhosi Safari Lodge KwaZulu-Natal South Africa

This time, our adventure through Swaziland, as much off-road as on-road, prevented us from making the evening game drive at Amakhosi Safari Lodge, northern KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa.   With hunger at bay, three trips to the waffle station at The Royal Swazi Spa Hotel near Mbabane, Swaziland later, we thought we’d given ourselves enough time to explore off-road and make the game drive.   Speaking of Swaziland, or now known as The Royal Kingdom of Eswatini, I ponder whether they’ll change their flag, as South Africa did…   After checking Google Maps (yes, as mentioned before, not always a good idea), we decided to head for the 4×4 only dirt tracks from Nhlangano through to Mhlosheni in Swaziland, straight through the Swaziland / South African border post as shown on Google and then onto the N2 freeway towards Pongola. Around thirty kilometres later we’d then arrive at the private game reserve, Amakhosi Safari Lodge, just in time for the sundowners in the heart of the African bushveld.   U-Turn Well, Google maps indicated a border post that did not exist, which was supposed to lead straight onto the N2 freeway about twenty kilometres outside of Pongola. A camouflage army tent […]
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Kruger National Park Kruger National Park Kruger National Park Kruger National Park Saddleback Pass Saddleback Pass Saddleback Pass Saddleback Pass Bulembu Pass Bulembu Pass
Jan 16
by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Off-Road, Wildlife 0 comments tags: Barberton, Bulembo Border post, Bulembo Pass, Bulembu Ministries, Elephants, Kirkman's Kamp, Kruger Gate, Lomati Dam, Malelane Gate, Royal Swazi Spa Hotel, Sabi Sands Reserve, Saddleback Pass, Sappi, South Africa, Swaziland, The Kruger National Park

The Kruger National Park to Saddleback and Bulembu Passes

From Kirkman’s Kamp in the Sabi Sands Reserve we entered The Kruger National Park through the Kruger Gate and drove at 50km/hr for two hours through the park, spotting a massive herd of elephant spread out as far as the eye could see.   Through the gate at Malelane, we exited The Kruger National Park and drove to Barberton for padkos and refuelling.   South-east of Barberton, we chugged along the ever steep and winding tarred Saddleback Pass with sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and Sappi’s forestry. Over 10.5 kilometres, we climbed 609 meters in altitude.   Beyond the summit and Lomati Dam, the Saddleback Pass becomes the Bulembu Pass, which connects South Africa to Swaziland.   Warning Bulembo Border post closes at 4:00pm. We arrived with two minutes to spare and fortunately, made it to the Swaziland side. It would have been a very time-consuming mistake otherwise…   From here onwards, through the derelict mining town previously known as Havelock Mine, now owned by Bulembu Ministries, a Canadian evangelical Christian charity, a 4×4 is a must. The road was incredibly exciting and in the heavy downpour that cloaked over us proved a challenge I never wanted to end. […]
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Jan 14
by Nicola in Nature, Uncategorized, Wildlife 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Big 5, Early morning, Kirkman's Kamp, Leopards, nature, Off-road, Private Game Reserve, South Africa, Sunrise, Wildlife

Kirkman’s Kamp Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve

From the meandering mountain passes of Swaziland, we drove almost six hours through Nelspruit to Kirkman’s Kamp in the heart of the emblematic Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve.  This time we stuck more on-road than off-road so as not to miss the afternoon game drive at the lodge. Due to my car’s dead battery and having to replace it soon after reaching White River, we came extremely close to missing out. Of course, they would have waited for us, or taken us in another vehicle to join the safari. No doubt about it! Fortunately, with thirty minutes to spare we had time for high tea spread out on the patio before the show began…   The Cats Known for its prolific leopard sightings, Sabi Sands had always been on the top of my list for wanderlust. Finally, I made it! After the fearless honey badgers, which are more elusive than leopards, the leopard is my next favourite animal to observe in the wild. The three leopard sightings with the game ranger, Jonty, unsurpassed any other sighting I’ve before experienced. We got to behold a female tearing a fresh impala kill to shreds; another smaller female strolling along the main track […]
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Zebra at Karkloof Nature Reserve Zebra at Karkloof Nature Reserve Panorama of Karkloof Nature Reserve Panorama at Karkloof Nature Reserve Panorama at Karkloof Nature Reserve Dry grassland at Karkloof Nature Reserve
Oct 05
by Nicola in Adventure, Hiking, KwaZulu-Natal, Nature, Wildlife 0 comments tags: Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Early morning, Karkloof Nature Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal, nature, Off-road, Rugged Terrain, South Africa, Umgeni Valley, Wildlife

Two seasons at Karkloof Nature Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal

Nestled in the ever-green heart of the Umgeni Valley, Karkloof Nature Reserve offers unspoilt trails amidst an undulating plateau – which has an average altitude of approximately one-thousand meters – mistbelt forest, grasslands, wetlands and wildlife – the non-predatory type.   I first hiked the reserve in February; as dawn descended and the sun-exposed itself the sweltering heat appeared to increase at least five degrees per hour. The lush vegetation, a pulsating green as dense as a nineteenth-century novel, kept the giraffe from sight. From the top of the jagged cliff face far into the distance, we spotted the head of a giraffe grazing the tops of acacias. Unfortunately, we didn’t have the time to get up close and personal and vowed to return in the near future.   Five months later, our pledge met, we returned in pursuit of the elusive giraffe. The lush green grasslands moved over for the wintery browns and the blackened grasslands caused by controlled fires. The sun took a little longer to warm my bones, and only increased a degree per hour. As a lone yellow-billed kite, unusual to see at this time of the year, hovered on the thermals overhead, we came across a […]
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From Naughty Nimbin to Sydney From Naughty Nimbin to Sydney From Naughty Nimbin to Sydney From Naughty Nimbin to Sydney From Naughty Nimbin to Sydney From Naughty Nimbin to Sydney From Naughty Nimbin to Sydney From Naughty Nimbin to Sydney From Naughty Nimbin to Sydney
Jun 14
by Nicola in Adventure, Beach, Nature, Sunset, Wildlife 0 comments tags: Adventure, Australia, beach, BeanOn Photography, Byron Bay, Early morning, Evans Head, Exploring, Hat Head National Park, Nambucca Heads, nature, New South Wales, Seal Rocks, Sunset, Sydney, Wildlife

From Naughty Nimbin to Sydney, NSW, Australia

From Naughty Nimbin (to Sydney), we returned to Byron Bay for a swim in the calm sea, still not quite able to fathom why this place was again overcrowded with major traffic problems. Yes, it had beautiful beaches but so did most of Sydney’s north coast.   Evans Head At Evans Head, a one-horse town compared to Byron Bay, we spent the night on an island overlooking the quaint harbour, in between where the boats docked. The stunning sunset, silhouetting the moorings, added to the tranquil feel of the place.   Nambucca Heads Waking to heavy rain and wind that rocked the van, we set off early-ish the following morning and enjoyed a lunch over looking the river at Nambucca Heads, where the weather had cleared. Inspecting the 500 meters of rock gallery, we strolled along The Vee Wall to the pristine and uncrowded beaches beyond at Shelly Beach. Surprisingly, I spotted another two aboriginal people!   Hat Head National Park Our next night’s rest landed us at Hat Head National Park. With only three other cars around in the park, and a few wallabies, we almost had the place to ourselves. The heavens opened again which prevented us from […]
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BeanOn_Tala BeanOn_Tala BeanOn_Tala
Apr 07
by Nicola in 4x4, KwaZulu-Natal, Nature, Off-Road, Safari, Wildlife 1 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, Antelope, BeanOn Photography, Early morning, Exploring, Hippos, KwaZulu-Natal, nature, Off-road, picnic site, restaurant, Rhino, Rugged Terrain, South Africa, swimming pool, Tala Private Game Reserve, The Hippo Hide, Wildebeest

Tala Private Game Reserve’s Gems: Five Adult Rhinos

With the craving gnawing at my heart, it had been thirty days plus since I’d last seen a rhino. Just under forty-five minutes from Durban we arrived at Tala, amidst the thick mist from the drizzling rain. Resistance is futile when a craving is upon thee… After paying our dues at the gate we headed up the hill to the right in search of Tala Private Game Reserve’s gems: five adult rhinos. Okay, we cheated a little and asked the guard at the gate where they were last spotted.   And there they were… Five large, healthy rhinocerotidaes (commonly known as rhinoceroses) huddled together on a mound of earth, resting while the rain gently fell. We spent about thirty minutes watching them stretch and roll over, as though their comfort in the damp truly mattered.   After exploring the reserve, relishing a packed breakfast at the Hippo Hide, a coffee at the restaurant’s veranda and bouncing along the 4×4 only tracks, we returned to the rhinos up and about munching their way through the grass. Such spectacular creatures!   As I’ve previously published a post on Tala Private Game Reserve about a year ago, I shall keep this one brief. […]
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Feb 21
by Nicola in 4x4, Nature, Safari, Wildlife 1 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Big 5, Buffalo, Early morning, Elephant, Exploring, KwaZulu-Natal, lion, nature, Off-road, Rhino, Rhino River Lodge, Rugged Terrain, South Africa, Sunrise, Sunset, Wildlife, Zululand

Rhino River Lodge: a sacred retreat

For me, after being away from home for nine months, nothing beats time in the bush. I chose Rhino River Lodge for a second visit because the first experience, eleven months ago, stayed with me every day since. I simply had to return. Again, expectations exceeded.   Less than 3 hours from Durban, just off the N2, Rhino River Lodge, home to the Big Five, warmly awaited us. Chelsea, Clair, Kyle and Alex to name but a few were all as welcoming as the African sun (not once have I complained about KZN’s amazingly humid heat). The day we arrived, the temperature reached thirty-six degrees Celsius, in the shade. What a greeting! A pity about the drought…   I’ve been fortunate enough to experience the knowledgeable and highly amusing ranger, Kyle, on both occasions. He threatened to name a meal after me for mispronouncing a Zulu word. I refuse to even attempt spelling it here. Swiftly moving on…   While on a game drive, a French tourist asked: “What’s the difference between impalas and springboks?” Kyle began: “Springboks are lighter in colour, and —” “Impalas don’t play rugby,” a fellow South African piped up.   Well, that tickled me!   An […]
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Oct 11
by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Beach, Nature, Off-Road, Wildlife 4 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, Atlantic Ocean, beach, BeanOn Photography, Big 5, Big Daddy, Big Mamma, Damara Granites, Dune 7, Elephants, Etosha National Park, Exploring, Fish River Canyon, Moon Landscape, Namib Desert, Namibia, nature, Off-road, ostriches, Rugged Terrain, Skeleton Coast, Sossusvlei, South Africa, Swakopmund, Walvis Bay, Wildlife, Windhoek, Zebra

Return to Namibia

Finally I get to visually return to Namibia… I thought I’d lost all my photographs from the first time I arrived in the UK, September 2000, until around 2012, just after I returned to South Africa. My external hard drive had crashed, devouring all my photos from every trip I’d been on while living in Europe: Thailand, Turkey, Morocco, Spain, Portugal, Italy, France, Switzerland, Germany and the list goes on. Devastated was not the word…   The other day my friend mentioned he had a copy of every photo I’d taken while we travelled together. Of course! I’d sent him a copy of our memories after every trip, and he’d done the same for me.   Right now I couldn’t be more delighted. I’ve started going through our Namibia trip and the only problem is I want to return with my more professional camera kit – I, after all, upgraded from a Canon to a Nikon – and experience every moment again. Somebody twist my arm!   The first time I visited Namibia was for a friend’s wedding in 2006 and I promised myself I had to return.   Two years later, (I can’t believe it’s seven years ago) I […]
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Jan 21
by Nicola in Beach, Nature, Wildlife 0 comments tags: BeanOn Photography, Exploring, Indian Ocean, KwaZulu-Natal, Lagoon Drive, South Africa, uMhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve, uMhlanga Rocks, Wildlife

uMhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve

Between the M4 freeway and the Indian Ocean, on the south bank of the Ohlanga River overfilling with reed beds (hence the reason the Zulus named it uMhlanga Rocks – ‘Place of Reeds and Rocks’), one will find the uMhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve with its entrance gate (free of charge) just past the Breakers hotel at the end of Lagoon Drive. There is a secret parking area, end of the cal-de-sac, at the entrance to the reserve.   Explore a well-marked heritage trail through ancient coastal forest, along boardwalks over the river, that’s home to vervets, small buck and birds. There are benches discreetly scattered amongst picnic spots.   The lush vegetation framing the blues of the ocean and golden sand is definitely worth capturing.    
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Dec 24
by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Cycling, Nature, Off-Road, Safari, Wildlife 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Challenge, cycling, Early morning, Gwahumbe Game Reserve, Jimny, KwaZulu-Natal, Off-road, Rhino, Rugged Terrain, South Africa, Suzuki, Suzuki Jimny, Wildlife

Fancy mountain biking with a rhino?

Can you even imagine mountain biking with a rhino…?   Well, unfortunately – of course I did it hoping for the ultimate experience, a beastly encounter that would make the heart drop to the foot and adrenalin force the blood to violently pump – it didn’t happen while on two wheels.   After exhausting ourselves by bicycle through the spectacular Gwahumbe (Saturday morning, 13 December) a favourite private game reserve for a day visit (because of the rugged landscape, and amazingly it’s just over an hour’s dive from Durban), we jumped in to my Jimny.   The climb down to the hippo pool brought us head-on with the rhino. We ensured we kept our distance, and that he was aware of our presence. A non existent exist strategy caused the brain to deal with many jumbled thoughts – in other words, we were trapped. He appeared to be relaxed, and while munching the grass on the edge of the track he glanced in our direction and moved closer and towards us.   I felt my body stiffen, my heart do somersaults, goose flesh ripple all over my body the moment his nose touched, albeit it a gentle touch, the Jimny’s nudge […]
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Nov 21
by Nicola in Nature, Off-Road, Safari, Wildlife 0 comments tags: &Beyond, BeanOn Photography, Big 5, Buffalo, Cheetah, Elephants, Game Drives, KwaZulu-Natal, Lions, Off-road, Phinda Private Game Reserve, Phinda Vlei Lodge, Rhinos, Rugged Terrain, Safari, South Africa, Wildlife

Phinda Vlei Lodge

A second visit to stunning Phinda, this time two nights and three days at Vlei Lodge exceeds all expectations once again. After all, each of the six private suites has its own swimming pool overlooking the vlei (wetland) on the edge of a forest. Despite all being booked, the lodge feels as peaceful as the surrounding bushveld.   Upon arrival, about a three-hour drive from King Shaka Airport, Friday lunchtime, a two-course meal awaits to fill the gap until high tea is served just before the evening game drive. Of course it is not compulsory to eat everything; however, when the five-star quality food tastes as good as it looks #ResistanceIsFutile. I probably ate a month’s worth of calories in three days – who keeps score when one’s on holiday anyway? Not to forget the three course dinner, snacks served in the middle of the bush during the game drives, morning and evening and then the hearty breakfast which consisted of your own personal continental buffet tray brought to rest alongside the table, for nibbling on while a hot plate of whatever your taste buds crave is being prepared. All meals are served out on the open deck, weather permitting, […]
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May 30
by Nicola in Nature, Wildlife 0 comments tags: African bush, BeanOn Photography, Big 5, KwaZulu-Natal, Northern KZN, Off-road, Wildlife, Zululand

Africa’s Prize

…to be kept secret.   Recently I read an article, a plea, to not reveal the name of game reserves that still have rhinos.   “Please be careful when sharing photos on social media. They can lead poachers to our rhino. Turn off geotag function and do not disclose where the photo was taken.”   This reserve, in the heart of Zululand, visited at the beginning of the month, is still fortunate enough to have many and all with their horns attached.   A couple of weeks go another private game reserve was a target; the target hit.   Before the second game drive ended we spotted the Big 5 – Africa’s prize; the elusive one only just visible, resting in the tall, dry grass less than 10 meters from the topless vehicle.   I’ve experimented with black and white and feel they work, better than expected – I couldn’t have asked for better lighting especially for the landscapes.  
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Apr 28
by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Nature, Off-Road, Wildlife 0 comments tags: 4x4, BeanOn Photography, Gwahumbe Game Reserve, hippo pool, lookout, Off-road, panoramas, rough-terrain, vistas, Wildlife

Gwahumbe Game Reserve

Less than an hour’s drive from Pinetown and you’ll find yourself amidst spectacular surroundings in KwaZulu-Natal.   Every turn, every bump on the 4×4 track at Gwahumbe Game Reserve is presented with a breath-taking vista; 2×4 wheel drive vehicles would also thrive, however, there is the option of being driven around by a ranger on a partly covered all-terrain vehicle/s belonging to the reserve.   After exploring – the cave, river crossings, views of the pea-green hippo pool from Thirsty’s Deck, water falling into a weir and an almost head-on collision with a male rhino standing guard to a herd of wildebeest and zebra – we could not resist dining at the main lodge’s restaurant overlooking gardens brimming with indigenous vegetation where we were showered with uncompromising hospitality and sensational and hearty food.   At the end, when paying our way at reception we almost insisted that they’d made a mistake when they’d taken off the entrance to the reserve from the total due to us enjoying a meal at the lodge.   A 4-star lodge that should boast 5-star for the scenery alone.   One of the activities includes mountain biking; imagine coming face to face with a rhino – oh the adrenaline. Guess […]
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Apr 13
by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Nature, Off-Road, Wildlife 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Early morning, Exploring, KwaZulu-Natal, Off-road, Rugged Terrain, Tala Private Game Reserve, Wildlife

Tala Private Game Reserve

Tala Private Game Reserve, a stunning wildlife sanctuary, amidst green sugarcane fields, is only a 30 minute drive from the Mariannhill Toll Plaza, Pinetown, KwaZulu-Natal.   Stuart Hicove purchased the cattle ranch in 1988 and then turned it into a game ranch that stretches 3200ha and is home to white rhino, giraffe, blue wildebeest, kudu, eland, nyala, sable, waterbuck, reedbuck, common duiker, warthog and a large variety of bird species.   The serenity, quietness – wildlife sounds – is an instant dose of calmness; a temporary reprieve from everyday turbulence.   Day visitors are welcome, and a nominal entrance fee is payable at the gate.   Office hours:  7:00am to 5:00pm   Gate times: 7:00am to 7:00pm (Summer) 7:00am to 5:00pm (Winter)   Guides are available for game drives and bush walks. There are picnic sites overlooking the rock pool and a restaurant at the main lodge.  
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Feb 03
by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Beach, Nature, Off-Road, Wildlife 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, Cape Vidal, Exploring, Greater St Lucia, Indian Ocean, iSimangaliso Wetland Park World Heritage Site, KwaZulu-Natal, Lake St Lucia, South Africa, Wildlife, Zululand

Only in Africa

The ultimate beach-and-bush experience en route to Cape Vidal via the iSimangaliso Wetland Park World Heritage Site, Greater St Lucia.   Stunning vistas of grasslands; greetings by zebra and kudu along the side of the road en route to the beach, where a beautiful, unspoilt bay awaits, beckons to be explored beneath its electric blue surface and then a grand farewell by two rhinos still with their horns attached, followed by a munching warthog.   Honestly, what more could a visitor wish for?   Once again, only in Africa!
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Recent Posts
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  • Sailing from venice to croatia on Bella Rose, our oyster 545 yacht
  • LOST IN ITALY… VENICE, DOLOMITES & Lake Garda
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