Off-road Archives - Nicola Ann Art

Dec 15

by Nicola in Uncategorized 0 comments tags: 4x4, BeanOn Photography, bushlore, Free State, Highest Pub in Africa, Land Cruiser, Lesotho, Off-road, Oranje Guest Farm, Sani Pass, South Africa

Another Daring Off-road Adventure through Southern Africa

SOUTH AFRICA, LESOTHO, MOZAMBIQUE AND SWAZILAND INDESTRUCTIBLE TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 79 FOR HIRE This time around we added a fourth country to our Southern African feat. Lesotho. Instead of using my 4×4 as we did last year, we hired a Toyota Land Cruiser 79 from https://bushlore.com. A robust and exceptional fully equipped self-contained 4×4 camper that exceeded our expectations. Except for one minor incident that occurred while on tar cruising through Lesotho. DURBAN THE BEST PLACE TO START Our adventure started in sweltering hot Durban, and what should have taken just over 3 hours took us almost 5 hours while driving off-road via Richmond. Through townships and lush KwaZulu-Natal hills and valleys that most people would advise against facing. I know… “Never throw caution to the wind. It could whip back into your eyes and blind you.” SANI PASS NOT YET TARRED We thought this may be the last time we get to experience Sani Pass as its authentic self, with a series of hairpins, twists, dongas, drops and picture-perfect scenery. Sadly, it’s soon going to be all tar from the ruins of the Good Hope trading store to the Lesotho border post. I’ve driven it a few times so had to […]

Jul 25

by Nicola in Off-Road, Sailing, Travel 3 comments tags: Albania, BeanOn Photography, Off-road, Sail & Trail, Sailing, Summer, The Greek Islands

PART 3: The Greek Islands to Albania | BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL | SUMMER of 2019

BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL, AN INDELIBLY SENSATIONAL SAILING ADVENTURE FROM MALTA TO SICILY TO THE GREEK ISLANDS TO ALBANIA TO MONTENEGRO TO CROATIA TO VENICE. SUMMER 2019. Splice the mainsail! Part 3: SAILING FROM THE GREEK ISLANDS TO ALBANIA Albania… Yes, Albania! A surprise indeed. Let’s sail to Albania, Captain! Albania? You heard correctly! Okay! Really? Yes, you too heard correctly… I know what! Let’s do the other thing we do best… Remind me, Captain said nudging gently. Trail… Of course, Sail & Trail. We attempted to hire a 4×4; however, ended up with a Fiat Panda. We can’t take this off-road, or can we? Of course we can, but we’ll keep it to ourselves. Well, let’s just say the Panda made it. We almost didn’t and turned back a few times, for dongas the size of the Fish River Canyon and sheer drops along single tracks as high at the Rockies caused a few near-death experiences. Fffff… Formidable! For at least 100 kilometres, we took on rugged terrain. Brave or plain… irresponsible? I really prefer not to judge!

Jan 18

by Nicola in 4x4, KwaZulu-Natal, Travel, Wildlife 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Big 5, Early morning, KwaZulu-Natal, nature, Off-road, South Africa, Sunrise, Wildlife, Zululand

Amakhosi Safari Lodge KwaZulu-Natal South Africa

This time, our adventure through Swaziland, as much off-road as on-road, prevented us from making the evening game drive at Amakhosi Safari Lodge, northern KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. With hunger at bay, three trips to the waffle station at The Royal Swazi Spa Hotel near Mbabane, Swaziland later, we thought we’d given ourselves enough time to explore off-road and make the game drive. Speaking of Swaziland, or now known as The Royal Kingdom of Eswatini, I ponder whether they’ll change their flag, as South Africa did… After checking Google Maps (yes, as mentioned before, not always a good idea), we decided to head for the 4×4 only dirt tracks from Nhlangano through to Mhlosheni in Swaziland, straight through the Swaziland / South African border post as shown on Google and then onto the N2 freeway towards Pongola. Around thirty kilometres later we’d then arrive at the private game reserve, Amakhosi Safari Lodge, just in time for the sundowners in the heart of the African bushveld. U-Turn Well, Google maps indicated a border post that did not exist, which was supposed to lead straight onto the N2 freeway about twenty kilometres outside of Pongola. A camouflage army tent […]

Jan 14

by Nicola in Nature, Uncategorized, Wildlife 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Big 5, Early morning, Kirkman's Kamp, Leopards, nature, Off-road, Private Game Reserve, South Africa, Sunrise, Wildlife

Kirkman’s Kamp Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve

From the meandering mountain passes of Swaziland, we drove almost six hours through Nelspruit to Kirkman’s Kamp in the heart of the emblematic Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve. This time we stuck more on-road than off-road so as not to miss the afternoon game drive at the lodge. Due to my car’s dead battery and having to replace it soon after reaching White River, we came extremely close to missing out. Of course, they would have waited for us, or taken us in another vehicle to join the safari. No doubt about it! Fortunately, with thirty minutes to spare we had time for high tea spread out on the patio before the show began… The Cats Known for its prolific leopard sightings, Sabi Sands had always been on the top of my list for wanderlust. Finally, I made it! After the fearless honey badgers, which are more elusive than leopards, the leopard is my next favourite animal to observe in the wild. The three leopard sightings with the game ranger, Jonty, unsurpassed any other sighting I’ve before experienced. We got to behold a female tearing a fresh impala kill to shreds; another smaller female strolling along the main track […]

Jan 12

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Off-Road, Travel 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Exploring, Goba Border Post, Off-road, Swaziland, Wide Horizons Farm

Offroad Adventure from Mozambique to Swaziland (Eswatini)

Resistance was futile when it came to surfing at sunrise on our last day in Ponta. Soon, we were to swap surf for turf, heading from Mozambique to Swaziland (Eswatini) and for the rest of the trip the surfboards had to sadly stay tied to the roof racks. Hundreds of people started waking up on the beach and many others arrived to set up camp, all eager to celebrate New Year’s Eve in Ponta D’ Ouro. So sorry we missed it, but there’s always a new year to enjoy with the locals and ‘Mapushkins’, who would all definitely teach us a thing or two when it came to partying… With topped up provisions from the hubbub market, we reluctantly bade farewell to an incredibly laid back charm that oozed vigour and spirit. It took us thirty minutes to exit the market parking area because of a man in a bakkie unloading his stock of water bottles. Keep calm and…relax even more… was definitely the motto of Ponta life. In the direction of Maputo, the capital of Mozambique, we drove over a hundred kilometres. Moments after passing through the outskirts of Maputo Special Reserve, a haven for elephants […]

Jan 10

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Beach, Travel 0 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, beach, BeanOn Photography, Exploring, Indian Ocean, Malongane, Mozambique, Off-road, Ponta, Ponta do Ouro, Ponta Malongane, Rugged Terrain, South Africa, Zululand

Offroad adventure of a Lifetime around South Africa, Mozambique and Swaziland

A total of two thousand and five hundred kilometres turned into an off-road adventure of a lifetime around South Africa, Mozambique and Swaziland. Completed in a speedy nineteen days. From 20th December 2018 to 7th January 2019 we spent three-quarters of the time off road than on road in my 4×4, deliberately seeking off the beaten tracks, tracks invisible on Garmin GPS. Forget Google Maps and Waze! Unless you have endless time to get back on track. If only… Naturally, I expected to be excited by the trip. New places to explore, different cultures to experience; so much of the unknown to delve into. My expectations were dull in comparison to the constant stream of stimulation engulfed at every turn, wishing every moment would last so much longer. Three countries: two out of the three I hadn’t set foot in | Two provinces, almost opposite ends of South Africa | Exploration of surf and turf | Beaches | Surfing | Luxury | Rustic | Gourmet | Basic | Braaied fish | R&Rs | Peri-peri | Unforgiving heat | Dripping humidity | Rural | City | Welcoming natives | Friendly foreigners | Electric thunderstorms | Blinding rain | […]

Road Trip from London to Dunnet Head: Kirkstone Pass, Lake District

Road Trip from London to Dunnet Head: Whaligoe Haven

Road Trip from London to Dunnet Head: John O'Groates

Road Trip from London to Dunnet Head: Dunnet Head

Road Trip from London to Dunnet Head: Cairngorms National Park

Road Trip from London to Dunnet Head: Yorkshire Dales

Impromptu Road Trip from London to Dunnet Head

With a change of plans over the festive period, we bravely set off on an impromptu road trip from London to Dunnet Head, the most northerly point in mainland Britain, Scotland. Heading to Scotland we travelled through the Lake District, exploring Kirkstone Pass; Lybster; Whaligoe Haven where the famous Billy Connolly filmed part of his television series titled The World Tour of Scotland; John O’ Groats; Dunnet Head; North West Highlands, Inverness; Cairngorms National Park with the snow-capped CairnGorm mountain range where disappointed skiers turned to sledging. Such serene vistas almost all looked fake, too perfect. Lost in its beauty, I experienced another side to Scotland (Fort William and Ben Nevis previously posted) that appealed to all of my senses in dramatic force. Forcefully dramatic; dramatically forceful. Four days later, the journey back to London took us through the Yorkshire Dales with miles of moors, valleys, waterfalls, hills and stone-built villages. Remote, rugged and rejuvenating, travelling the UK during the Christmas holidays proved to be an adventure that has to be repeated. With only Indian or Chinese restaurants open or rather still with availability at the last minute, I didn’t mind eating Indian food two nights in a row. […]

Dry grassland at Karkloof Nature Reserve

Oct 05

by Nicola in Adventure, Hiking, KwaZulu-Natal, Nature, Wildlife 0 comments tags: Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Early morning, Karkloof Nature Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal, nature, Off-road, Rugged Terrain, South Africa, Umgeni Valley, Wildlife

Two seasons at Karkloof Nature Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal

Nestled in the ever-green heart of the Umgeni Valley, Karkloof Nature Reserve offers unspoilt trails amidst an undulating plateau – which has an average altitude of approximately one-thousand meters – mistbelt forest, grasslands, wetlands and wildlife – the non-predatory type. I first hiked the reserve in February; as dawn descended and the sun-exposed itself the sweltering heat appeared to increase at least five degrees per hour. The lush vegetation, a pulsating green as dense as a nineteenth-century novel, kept the giraffe from sight. From the top of the jagged cliff face far into the distance, we spotted the head of a giraffe grazing the tops of acacias. Unfortunately, we didn’t have the time to get up close and personal and vowed to return in the near future. Five months later, our pledge met, we returned in pursuit of the elusive giraffe. The lush green grasslands moved over for the wintery browns and the blackened grasslands caused by controlled fires. The sun took a little longer to warm my bones, and only increased a degree per hour. As a lone yellow-billed kite, unusual to see at this time of the year, hovered on the thermals overhead, we came across a […]

Jul 14

Gwahumbe Game Lodge & Spa – a sea of tranquility

Whenever I visit Gwahumbe Game Lodge & Spa it’s as though I’m floating on a sea of tranquillity. One of my favourite little pieces of heaven just over an hour’s drive from Durban. Usually, I am either exploring the reserve by 4×4 or huffing and puffing along the 4×4 track on a mountain bike; however, this time I decide to self-indulge (actually, a friend treated me) in luxurious beauty treatments at the four-star (plus, in my opinion) spa. A decadent treat. As someone once said, resistance is futile… Before even reaching the main gate to the reserve, I stop a few times to photograph the rolling mountains with the sugar cane fields in the foreground blushing a vibrant green. The light haze from the sun enveloping the peaks make them appear too perfect for this world. Nature at it’s five-star best! At the main reception, where I announce my arrival, I help myself to a mug of Rooibos tea and take it down with me to the spa, overlooking more perfect peaks now with balls of cloud hovering above them, the sun almost disappearing for good. My favourite treatment without doubt is the hot stone massage. A […]

May 12

by Nicola in Adventure, Architecture, Art, Off-Road 0 comments tags: Adventure, Architecture, Australia, BeanOn Photography, nature, New South Wales, Nimbin, Off-road, The Hemp Embassy

Naughty Nimbin, New South Wales

Happily deciding to only lunch at the chaotic Byron Bay instead of spending the night, we headed in to the mountains before experiencing the day at naughty Nimbin, New South Wales. Recalling the strict instruction, “Only use the campervan on dirt tracks leading to campsites,” from Apollo’s campervan hire assistant, we briefly reconsidered our plight. “What’s the worst that could happen?” “Exactly!” Resistance is futile! Shake, rattle and roll, lasting over an hour, over what should have been termed, or should that be warned, ‘4×4 only track’ where any vehicles are concerned. At least we made it, and even more impressive so did the sleeper van, and surprisingly even so, all the crockery arrived in one piece too. Exciting, right? Well, wait until you step foot inside a place where not another on this Earth could touch it. Welcome to Nimbin – “Australia’s weed capital” – a quaint place with psychedelic buildings. People gaudily coated in tie-dye clothing strolled around aimlessly without a care in the world. Cafés filled with all sorts of people, from businessmen to tramps. Anything goes. Outside, at the back of a café we noticed the kites flying high, how everyone was clearly […]

May 11

Would you live in Cape Town?

After my recent trip to Cape Town someone asked me, Would you live in Cape Town? I answered immediately. Without a second’s hesitation, I said, “No!” Cape Town is unreservedly South Africa’s most beautiful city! Wholeheartedly, I agree. Cape Town is clean, visually pleasing; the government go out of their way to attract tourists; the people of Cape Town, the locals respect their government; the taxis are well behaved, road users stop at red traffic lights and are polite. Okay, perhaps the reason for such a well run province – the Western Cape – is because the ANC (African National Congress) does not dominate. The majority of the Western Cape are not black and so the DA (Democratic Alliance) are in power, which apparently says it all. However, when Cape Town experiences a cold front, it suddenly turns atrocious. The dreadful winters feel like they are as long lasting as the UK’s winters. And I would not know what to do with myself in a place that only offered cold oceans. Even a 20mm dry suit wouldn’t get me into such icy waters. And I don’t think I could survive without surfing, not again. Did you […]

Apr 07

Tala Private Game Reserve’s Gems: Five Adult Rhinos

With the craving gnawing at my heart, it had been thirty days plus since I’d last seen a rhino. Just under forty-five minutes from Durban we arrived at Tala, amidst the thick mist from the drizzling rain. Resistance is futile when a craving is upon thee… After paying our dues at the gate we headed up the hill to the right in search of Tala Private Game Reserve’s gems: five adult rhinos. Okay, we cheated a little and asked the guard at the gate where they were last spotted. And there they were… Five large, healthy rhinocerotidaes (commonly known as rhinoceroses) huddled together on a mound of earth, resting while the rain gently fell. We spent about thirty minutes watching them stretch and roll over, as though their comfort in the damp truly mattered. After exploring the reserve, relishing a packed breakfast at the Hippo Hide, a coffee at the restaurant’s veranda and bouncing along the 4×4 only tracks, we returned to the rhinos up and about munching their way through the grass. Such spectacular creatures! As I’ve previously published a post on Tala Private Game Reserve about a year ago, I shall keep this one brief. […]

Golden Gate Highlands National Park

The moment one witnesses the beaming sun-rays, either from a sunrise or sunset, softly gild the sandstone cliffs making up the Maluti Mountains, it becomes instantly apparent how the Golden Gate Highlands National Park acquired its name. Mr van Reenen, in 1878, spotted this sighting and named his new farm, wait for it – Golden Gate. From Kiara Resort, we drove approximately five kilometres to Glen Reenen Rest Camp within the Golden Gate Highlands National Park and parked the car. With the sun already casting a glow on to the distant cliffs, we crossed the road and embarked on our hike just after 6am. Desiring to knock off at least an hour from the four-hour Wodehouse Peak hike, we meandered via Mushroom Rock. In awe of its magnificence, we breezed around the mushroom-like rock formation, glancing up every few moments to absorb the scale of the mountain that loomed above us. Zigzagging up towards Wodehouse Peak, steeper and steeper we climbed. Feeling safe, we traversed along the extremely well maintained path with its perfectly carved sandstone steps, wooden bridge and iron rods strategically placed for hands to grab, to heave one’s body up the mountain side. Up and up we climbed, and […]

Kiara Resort, Maluti Mountains

This past Friday we drove an easy – with not one pothole in sight – four hours from Durbs to Kiara Resort nestled in the striking, sandstone Maluti / Maloti Mountains between the Golden Gate Highlands National Park and the charming village of Clarens in the Free State. From the moment we left Bergville we spotted herds of pure black wildebeest, small oribi antelope, eland antelope, blesbok antelope, springbok antelope, mountain reedbuck and zebra freely roaming the vast open scrublands at every meandering turn. The temperature reached 34 degrees Celsius before midday. The car’s air-conditioning turned up to maximum failed at providing relief from the incredibly dry heat. And this is autumn? With just over an hour to spare before check-in time at 3pm, we refuelled at the Golden Gate Hotel. While admiring the sandstone mountain range from the recently renovated hotel restaurant, we enjoyed a light, great value for money, lunch. Kiara Resort’s reception area appeared in great need of a spruce up. Fortunately, the apartment style self-catering chalet allocated to us wasn’t in the same state as the reception area. Clean, new and modern, the spacious chalet, comfortable for six adults, deserved a three-plus-star […]

Feb 21

by Nicola in 4x4, Nature, Safari, Wildlife 1 comments tags: 4x4, Adventure, BeanOn Photography, Big 5, Buffalo, Early morning, Elephant, Exploring, KwaZulu-Natal, lion, nature, Off-road, Rhino, Rhino River Lodge, Rugged Terrain, South Africa, Sunrise, Sunset, Wildlife, Zululand

Rhino River Lodge: a sacred retreat

For me, after being away from home for nine months, nothing beats time in the bush. I chose Rhino River Lodge for a second visit because the first experience, eleven months ago, stayed with me every day since. I simply had to return. Again, expectations exceeded. Less than 3 hours from Durban, just off the N2, Rhino River Lodge, home to the Big Five, warmly awaited us. Chelsea, Clair, Kyle and Alex to name but a few were all as welcoming as the African sun (not once have I complained about KZN’s amazingly humid heat). The day we arrived, the temperature reached thirty-six degrees Celsius, in the shade. What a greeting! A pity about the drought… I’ve been fortunate enough to experience the knowledgeable and highly amusing ranger, Kyle, on both occasions. He threatened to name a meal after me for mispronouncing a Zulu word. I refuse to even attempt spelling it here. Swiftly moving on… While on a game drive, a French tourist asked: “What’s the difference between impalas and springboks?” Kyle began: “Springboks are lighter in colour, and —” “Impalas don’t play rugby,” a fellow South African piped up. Well, that tickled me! An […]