Travel Archives - Nicola Ann Art

Jun 12

by Nicola in Sailing, Travel 0 comments tags: D-Marine, Greece, Greek Islands, Lefkas

greek odyssey: LEFKAS, GREECE

FIRST SAIL OF THE SEASON We spent 4 days eagerly getting Bella Rose ready for her first sail of the season. I wanted a break from boat-stuff and explored more of Lefkas town that I missed out on exploring the previous year. TOURISTS MISSING Because of coronavirus, Lefkas was devoid of tourists. The locals were very conscious of social distancing by keeping their space in queues and wearing masks at all times, even out on the streets. Even though it was approaching mid-season, very few charter boats were out and so the waterfront and marina remained restful. BEAUTY AMIDST THE BEASTLY In Lefkas, buildings were crumbling, yet people made it welcoming with pink bougainvillaea and lemon trees. A carpet of lemons remained discarded along the pavements. Smells of jasmine and magnolia sweetened the rotting aroma emanating from the rubbish bins and drains. Many houses were made of rusting corrugated iron. Even some contemporary homes designed by top architects were built with corrugated iron and freshly painted with magnolia. Mosquitoes turned hungrier at night and were undeterred by the citronella candle.

Aug 13

by Nicola in Nature, Sailing, Travel 0 comments tags: Adriatic Alternatives, Albania, Montenegro, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Published article, Sailing Today, Sailing Today Magazine

‘Adriatic alternatives’ ARTICLE PUBLISHED BY SAILING TODAY MAGAZINE

ADRIACTIC ALTERNATIVES Nicola Beykirch works her way north from the Ionian Islands to explore Albania and Montenegro – two Balkan nations of contrasting allure Words & Photography By NICOLA BEYKIRCH Published By SAILING TODAY September 2020 Edition Regular readers of “Sailing Today” may recall from the April edition that Captain Barry and I had spent a couple of weeks exploring Greece’s Ionian Islands on “Bella Rose“, our Oyster 545. After that we decided to challenge ourselves by sailing up the Adriatic to Albania before concluding our latest voyage in Montenegro. Albania conjured up thoughts of isolation and mystery and appeared a bold place to visit, let alone sail. We relished the challenge, and so one August dawn we found ourselves setting sail from Erikoussa Island, northwest of Corfu, to commence our adventure. A sloppy sea and erratic winds over 50 miles transported us to Vlorë Habour, the only harbour in Albania that permitted foreign boats to check-in. We arranged a clearing agent who assisted us in tying up. He then grabbed our documents, hopped on his bicycle and sorted out the paperwork at the harbour office. We then sailed 6.5 miles to Marina Orikum, the only marina in Albania, where […]

Aug 10

by Nicola in Adventure, Cities, Nature, Travel 0 comments tags: MARINA CERTOSA, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Social Distancing, The Dolomites, The Great Dolomites Road, Venice

LOST IN ITALY… VENICE, DOLOMITES & Lake Garda

Sadly, with the world in crisis, this year’s adventures didn’t go according to plan. After months of lockdown, and still feeling the sleepiness of the pandemic, we felt humbled being able to return to Venice, to sail Bella Rose to bluer waters. TO THE RESCUE, HERE I AM We’d left Bella Rose, our Oyster 545, at Marina Certosa in Venice for the winter. After experiencing endless issues and lack of action during her berth, we were desperate to return to the yacht, sort out as much as possible and leave soonest. Approaching the jetty at Certosa, a new restaurant loomed ahead. The owner had a Michelin Star restaurant on the mainland. It reminded me of a mini Ibiza, seating on the deck alongside the sea, bean bags and club music reverberated the moment we set foot onto the jetty. At night it turned into a sophisticated diner, music turned down and served simply delicious food, without any pretentious fuss. The best pizza had to be from Verde Pistacchio Pizzeria Sicilian, the tiny-mini-van at the far end of Certosa island. He did the perfect vegetarian without cheese, for us vegans and then we took our own ‘cheese’ the next few days, laughing at […]

Jun 01

by Nicola in Sailing, Travel 0 comments tags: Croatia, Istria, Kotor, Montenegro, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Sailing, Sailing Today

‘THE REST IS ISTRIA’ ARTICLE PUBLISHED BY SAILING TODAY MAGAZINE

THE REST IS ISTRIA Nicola Beykirch headed to Venice in search of a cheap winter berth and endured the hardship of sailing the length of the Croatian coast en route Words & Photography By NICOLA BEYKIRCH Published By SAILING TODAY Regular readers of Sailing Today will recall that Captain Barry and I had sailed Bella Rose, our Oyster 545, along the Mediterranean to Sicily, and then on to the Ionian Islands, before turning up the Adriatic to Albania and Montenegro before flying back for a two-week break in London. We now returned to the port of Kotor and Bella Rose, eager to resume our summer adventure by sailing north to Croatia before finishing in Venice. From the port of Kotor, after purchasing supplies, we motored into the sun at 7pm. Behind us, the peaks bathed in a lavender glow and we motored to the nearest customs port at Tivat for Barry to check out. Upon arrival in July, our clearing agent had arranged our cruising permit and said we could check out from any port after we had returned, with no need for another permit. I stayed on board for over an hour before Barry returned having been told that our cruising […]

Apr 01

by Nicola in Sailing, Travel 0 comments tags: Greece, Ionian Islands, Ionian Sea, Mediterranean, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Oyster 545 Yacht, Sailing, Sailing Today, Sicily

‘greece is the word’ article PUBLISHED BY SAILING TODAY MAGAZINE

GREECE IS THE WORD The magic of the Mediterranean is in the incredibly diverse cultures nestled on its shores. Nicola Beykirch charts a trip from Malta to the Ionian Islands via Sicily Words & Photography By NICOLA BEYKIRCH Published By SAILING TODAY I couldn’t believe a year had slipped by since ‘A Med Time Story’ and ‘Sailing Safari’, on Bella Rose, our 2017 Oyster 545. It took minutes to decide the outline of our summer sailing 2019 adventure, reinforcing how easy-going both Captain Barry and I are when it comes to exploring together. A true sail and trail team! How about we head from Malta to Sicily to the Ionian Islands to Montenegro to Croatia and then leave Bella Rose in Venice for the winter? Barry didn’t need to hold his breath for my answer. Finally, the day arrived. On a Saturday at 5:30 pm, we bid farewell to Valetta’s Grand Harbour, where Bella Rose had spent the winter. We motored into a blinding sun and 40-degree heat. Fifteen miles from shore the expansive rich blue sea and tranquillity greeted us in every direction: no buildings, no land in sight. The idyllic start to a journey! Soon after dinner of a […]

Feb 29

by Nicola in Architecture, Cities, Travel 0 comments tags: Coronavirus, COVID-19, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Pandemic, Venice

Coronavirus cuts short the Venice Carnival

25 JANUARY 2020 A gloomy yet invigorating weekend spent in Venice; busier than expected. 31 JANUARY 2020 Rome confirmed the first two cases of COVID-19. 23 FEBRUARY 2020 The Carnival of Venice was cancelled, result of Coronavirus, two days earlier than scheduled. 29 FEBRUARY 2020 Returned to Venice for another long weekend. NON-CONTACT THERMOMETER CHECKS I counted twenty people on the EasyJet flight. At Venice airport, before reaching passport control, medics checked each passenger’s temperature before permitting us to proceed. GHOST TOWN The carnival always marked the start of Venice’s peak tourist season. Sadly, this year the pandemic chased the revellers away leaving a ghost town in its wake. Surreal yet ingratiating, with most of the shops and restaurants closed. Police patrolled Piazza San Marco and guarded the tightly shut St Mark’s Basilica, museums and theatres. Almost redundant with only a handful of people scattered about. ETHREAL GRANDUER I relished the opportunity of getting up close and personal to the city’s ornate details without having to worry about stepping on anyone’s toes. ABSENT NON-CONTACT THERMOMETER CHECKS Returning to the UK, I counted sixteen people on the flight. At London Luton Airport, we freely entered with no medics to check our temperatures. […]

Jan 04

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Beach, Off-Road, Sailing, Travel 0 comments tags: Anvil Bay, Dhow Sailing, Mozambique, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Sailing, Santa Maria, Southern Africa Adventure

Unique Dhow Sailing Experience Mozambique

After settling in at Anvil Bay, we experienced a first sailing trip on a dhow at a nearby lake. Dhow sailing has been a traditional way of travelling around along the East African coast as early as 600AD. Anvil Bay collected their groceries, everything they didn’t grow themselves, from Santa Maria delivered by a dhow from Maputo. Through the Maputo Special Reserve and Machangulo Reserve for almost thirty kilometres, we explored villages, dune forests, mangrove swamps, freshwater lakes and coast before reaching Santa Maria Peninsula on the eastern side of Maputo Bay, near to Inhaca Island. The ‘berth’ place for dhows. Please Note: For copyright purposes, the resolution of each image below is considerably reduced. Dhow Sailing Experience at Anvil Bay The Sailing Dhows ‘berthed’ at Santa Maria

Jan 01

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Beach, Nature, Off-Road, Travel 0 comments tags: Anvil Bay, Maputo Special Reserve, Mozambique, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Southern Africa

Maputo To Anvil Bay Via MAPUTO SPECIAL RESERVE Mozambique

Early breakfast; early getaway. And direct to Maputo Special Reserve, through almost 1 500 km² of agrarian conservation to reach Anvil Bay, the private and exclusive barefoot beach camp. MAPUTO SPECIAL RESERVE Off-roading at its best, we had deflated the tyres and listened to the warning of the angry elephants at the entrance gate to the reserve. ‘They charge vehicles. Not mock, real, deadly charge. Drive forward or reverse as fast possible in opposite direction. They big business. Grande!’ The ranger widened his arms either side of him, reinforcing the “big”. Bring it on. Unfortunately, after spending over three hours exploring the reserve, okay, hunting down the unruly beasts. I’d only ever experienced a mock charge by an elephant. Tut! Now the thought of a real, deadly charge caused my amygdala to fire off every thrilling emotion. We never crossed their path. It was searingly hot, we resigned ourselves to accepting they took cover amid the thick bush, where vehicle tracks weren’t visible. Off-piste? No, respect the rules. The highlight was watching three jackals stalk four adults and two young wildebeest. They’d separated from the larger herd and ungainly tried escaping an ambush. The adults outsmarted the predators by keeping […]

Dec 30

by Nicola in 4x4, Cities, Travel 0 comments tags: Maputo, Mozambique, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Peri-Peri, Polana Serena Hotel, Tofo Beach

Mozambique’s Tofo Beach to its capital Maputo

Early breakfast. Early departure. We drove from Tofo Beach, with a couple of stops en route, a total of seven hours, to Maputo. Through the main towns traffic jams, car accidents, wedding parties and livestock greeted us from every direction. Fortunately, the national asphalt roads were well maintained and drivers mostly behaved. Unlike when we first entered Mozambique. GRAND DAME BECKONS After checking into the palatial Grand Dame of African Hotels, known as the Polana Serena, we decided to leave the car behind and walk to Baixa, old town Maputo. Mozambique’s capital city, previously known as Lourenço Marques. After twenty minutes winding through the backstreets, we reached one of the wide main roads leading straight into the town. Suddenly it no longer felt safe and exciting. Many were finishing work and didn’t appear too pleased to see us, the only tourists as far as the eye could wander. FOOT DOWN “Let’s go back and get the car!” This time I put my foot down, defiantly insistent. Being enclosed within a vehicle made all the difference to feeling safer. Still, I felt on edge, keeping my wits about me even when in the car, ensuring the doors were locked and windows rolled […]

Dec 29

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Beach, Off-Road, Travel 0 comments tags: Mozambique, Nicola Ann Art, Nicola Beykirch, Tofino Beach, Tofo Beach

Tofo Beach, Mozambique

On the road again… After breakfast, we left Naara Eco Lodge & Spa and drove off-road as much as possible, a total of five hours to reach Tofo Beach. Our main destination in Mozambique, a place devoid of South African and overseas tourists, unlike Ponta do Ouro. AN ARRESTING EXPERIENCE A friendly laid-back vibe, vibrant people as warm as the beach sand at midday, intimate pulsating nightlife, popular Moz musicians, unique ocean life protected by an arresting bay ebbing and flowing onto a long arced beach, exquisite food, Tofo Beach breathed and oozed Paradise. POINT BREAK The bay dished out perfect ridable waves idyllic for both beginner and intermediate surfers. The pro surfers headed around the point to Tofino (little Tofo) for a ride of their life, where most tourists didn’t venture. During sunrise and low tide, a walk from Tofo Beach around the headland to Tofino made for an energising start to the day. MERRY X-MASS On Christmas day Mozambicans arrived in droves and celebrated as though the world were ending the following day. Police patrolled the market and beach, in case anyone turned too frisky. Fortunately, the people partied in peace and the enforcement was kept at bay. […]

Dec 20

by Nicola in 4x4, Adventure, Nature, Off-Road, Safari, South Africa, Sunrise, Sunset, Travel 0 comments tags: Motswari Giraffe’s Nest, Nicola Ann Art, Safari, South Africa, Timbavati and Umbabat Private Nature Reserve

Five-star Safari & Adventure At Motswari Geiger’s Camp

FROM ESWATINI BACK TO SOUTH AFRICA Resuming our Southern Africa adventure, we left Piggs Peak, Eswatini and explored as much off-road as possible before reaching the five-star safari experience Motswari Geiger’s Camp in the Timbavati and Umbabat Private Nature Reserve, South Africa in time for the afternoon and evening game drive. JUST THE TWO OF US We had the entire camp, a ranger and a tracker to ourselves, the only two booked in at the main reserve. A novelty, something neither of us had before experienced; as if deliberately arranged, but so happened by sensational chance. MOTSWARI GIRAFFE’S NEST Straight after the afternoon game drive, the ranger dropped us off at Motswari Giraffe’s Nest, so that we could witness the dramatic sunset; well worth cutting the drive short. While enveloped by untamed wilderness, as far as the eye could wander, we spent our first night in a luxurious nest, high above the ground in a treetop overlooking Xanatsi Dam. The chef had prepared our dinner and breakfast, with bowls of snacks and as many soft and alcoholic drinks as desired. Both the food and the drinks would last at least a few days. STAY ALERT – DON’T GET HURT We […]

Aug 22

by Nicola in Adventure, Cities, Sailing, Travel 0 comments tags: Bella Rose, Croatia, Oyster 545 Yacht, Sailing, Venice

PART 5: CROATIA TO VENICE | BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL | SUMMER of 2019

BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL, AN INDELIBLY SENSATIONAL SAILING ADVENTURE FROM MALTA TO SICILY TO THE GREEK ISLANDS TO ALBANIA TO MONTENEGRO TO CROATIA TO VENICE. SUMMER OF 2019. Part 5: SAILING FROM CROATIA TO VENICE We sailed to 13 islands/towns in Croatia –– Cavtat, Dubrovnic, Sanj, Mljet, Lastovo, Hvar, Primosten, Skradin, Kornati Bay, uvala Balvanida, Pula and Rovinj –– before the overnight venture to Venice. Something I had always longed to do was sail up and down the canal in Venice alongside Piazza San Marco, up to the entrance of The Grand Canal. Such magnificence! The last time I’d visited Venice was in 2003, a completely different experience arriving by plane than by yacht, as though a first time visiting the city this time almost 20 years later. We spent a couple of days exploring Venice and the islands before shutting Bella Rose away for the winter. Perhaps we’ll return to her early next year for a skiing adventure over the Dolomites before the summer sailing in 2020. Photography taken in Croatia Photography taken in Venice

Jul 29

by Nicola in Adventure, Sailing, Sunset, Travel 0 comments tags: Albania to Montenegro, BeanOn Photography, Montenegro, Montenegro Police, Oyster 545 Yacht, Sailing

PART 4: ALBANIA TO MONTENEGRO | BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL | SUMMER of 2019

BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL, AN INDELIBLY SENSATIONAL SAILING ADVENTURE FROM MALTA TO SICILY TO THE GREEK ISLANDS TO ALBANIA TO MONTENEGRO TO CROATIA TO VENICE. SUMMER OF 2019. Part 4: SAILING FROM ALBANIA TO MONTENEGRO Batten down the hatches! A stunning night engulfed my being upon departing Albania for Montenegro; a band of fiery orange exploded along the horizon, beneath a sparkling indigo sky. What a farewell to an enthralling adventure in Albania. Further excitement ensued the moment we dropped anchor at a bay just outside The Bay of Kotor. The police by RIB descended upon us like a honey badger on a swarming beehive. I’d prefer not to refer to the word ‘arrested’… So… with great theatrics, the police escorted us to the nearest customs office. The responsibility fell completely on us, of course. We attempted to push the boundaries but got caught. The consequences dealt by draconian hand! Indeed, I shall share further in the article to be published by the sailing magazine. Please Note: For copyright purposes I have considerably reduced the resolution of each image below.

Jul 25

by Nicola in Off-Road, Sailing, Travel 3 comments tags: Albania, BeanOn Photography, Off-road, Sail & Trail, Sailing, Summer, The Greek Islands

PART 3: The Greek Islands to Albania | BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL | SUMMER of 2019

BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL, AN INDELIBLY SENSATIONAL SAILING ADVENTURE FROM MALTA TO SICILY TO THE GREEK ISLANDS TO ALBANIA TO MONTENEGRO TO CROATIA TO VENICE. SUMMER 2019. Splice the mainsail! Part 3: SAILING FROM THE GREEK ISLANDS TO ALBANIA Albania… Yes, Albania! A surprise indeed. Let’s sail to Albania, Captain! Albania? You heard correctly! Okay! Really? Yes, you too heard correctly… I know what! Let’s do the other thing we do best… Remind me, Captain said nudging gently. Trail… Of course, Sail & Trail. We attempted to hire a 4×4; however, ended up with a Fiat Panda. We can’t take this off-road, or can we? Of course we can, but we’ll keep it to ourselves. Well, let’s just say the Panda made it. We almost didn’t and turned back a few times, for dongas the size of the Fish River Canyon and sheer drops along single tracks as high at the Rockies caused a few near-death experiences. Fffff… Formidable! For at least 100 kilometres, we took on rugged terrain. Brave or plain… irresponsible? I really prefer not to judge!

Jul 15

by Nicola in Sailing, Travel, Uncategorized 5 comments tags: BeanOn Photography, Greek Islands, Ionian Sea, Navagio beach, Shipwreck beach, Siracusa to Zakynthos

PART 2: SICILY TO THE GREEK ISLANDS|BELLA ROSE, OYSTER 545, UP FOR SAIL | SUMMER 2019

Bella Rose, Oyster 545, Up For Sail, an indelibly sensational sailing adventure from Malta to Sicily to the Greek Islands to Albania to Montenegro to Croatia to Venice. Summer 2019. Shiver me timbers! PART 2: SAILING FROM SICILY TO THE GREEK ISLANDS First stop, Zakynthos. A Greek Island in the Ionian Sea. Navagio beach, aka Shipwreck beach, brings in more tourists, accessed by boat only, than any other tourist attraction in Greece, including Athens. Second, third, etc., stops included: Kefalonia, Poros, Sami, Kisaka, Kioni, Lefkados, Antipaxos, Paxos, Corfu and Erikoussa. However, they are going to have to wait until magazine publication… I know! A killer! The rest of the words in images… Feel the sounds, smells, throbbing heat and rejuvenating tranquillity…