Shalom!
My second visit to Israel left me desiring more. I can’t believe we missed out on Abu Hassan, apparently it’s one of the best hummus restaurants in Israel, Jaffa and because of such loss I shall return. After all, hummus (pronounced with a guttural ‘g’ instead of an ‘h’) is one of my favourite things to eat.
Twelve years ago, I first visited Israel and had since lost all my photographs due to a hard drive crash. A return couldn’t have been more welcomed. This time I had my own personal tour guide, and instead of buses with hordes of tourists we’d hired a car and also bicycles, whereby experiencing more of the extraordinary.
From Ben Gurion Airport, we took our lives in our hands while driving the twenty-five kilometres in to Jaffa. Just about every car tooted their horns, no gaps left unturned and everyone behind every wheel pushed in, into the absent gaps, not a single driver indicates and add a bit more hooting. Behaving like a driving instructor, my foot constantly wanted to slam down on the imaginary foot brake. Bloodcurdling, to say the least! However, the daily car journeys, many kilometres later, we encountered only one motor accident. I don’t know how…
I couldn’t get over the quality of the food served at the wide variety of restaurants in Jaffa, Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. We experienced a few fine dining eateries and as top quality as the restaurants in London. And not much cheaper either.
Market House Hotel
Awarded a 2016 Certificate of Excellence by Trip Advisor, Market House Hotel exceeded such expectations. I could have easily spent another five nights at the friendly and efficiently run establishment.
Situated next to the Jaffa Clock Tower and Flea Market, most of the rooms have balconies overlooking the market’s surroundings. Archaeological ruins of a Byzantine Chapel can be viewed underfoot through the glass floor of the lobby.
Here I devoured the best breakfast I’ve ever eaten. A feast fit for a princess! Hummus, different styles of breads, aubergine dip, succulent olives, cold roasted vegetables, chickpea salad, tomato salad, cakes and pastries. Every morsel temptingly gratifying!
Dinner at Manta Ray
After strolling for two hours through Jaffa’s streets and then along the promenade, we settled outside on the balcony of Manta Ray. Overlooking the golden sands and Mediterranean Sea, we dined on a mezze of starters and the filleted blue bream served on organic red rice, pineapple and chilli butter. For dessert we had the chocolate mousse ball oozing salty cookie crumbs surrounded by a tangerine jus. All exceptionally well prepared and presented.
Arab quarters
Sunday morning, with the warm sun (26-28 degrees Celsius most days) rising, we relished a stroll through the Arab quarters. Stumbling upon what looked like a car boot sale without the cars, also known as outdoor junk vendors. Jaffa’s Shuk HaPishpushim, or Flea Market. People gathered around looking at the displayed wares spread out on carpets or tables all over the street. A stall with framed pictures caused quite a stir, hands snatching pictures from other’s hands. Further in to the old town, the streets were mostly quiet with only the youngsters making their way to school. Parents or taxis dropping the children off and the rest walking together, as safe as could be. Most of the houses looked tired and unkempt; however, the brightly coloured bougainvillea pleasantly hid some of the cracks.
Jaffa’s nightlife
Friday night, after having returned to the hotel at 11pm, we worried we’d missed the food run. The moment we hit Jaffa’s Flea market domain we realised we’d stumbled upon Jaffa’s hottest hang-outs. People spilled out from every bar, the streets teaming with groups enjoying themselves, moving from one bar to the next, music pumping from all directions. At a table out on the street, we settled at a quieter Italian restaurant, and watched the nightlife dance by.
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